Rogers Hitron CODA-4582 Hardware

[Double_K]

Announced 13-December-2016 by @RogersDave  http://communityforums.rogers.com/t5/forums/forumtopicpage/board-id/Getting_connected/message-id/379...

Credit to @Hybrid_Noodle

Hitron website: http://www.hitron-americas.com/product/coda-4582/

Datasheet: http://www.hitron-americas.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/CODA-4582-Datasheet.pdf

60W Power Supply built into unit

Pictures of Hardware Version 1A:

***Added Labels***

[Datalink]

You can disable those functions before kicking the modem into Bridge mode, but, the reality is that none of those functions work when the modem is in Bridge mode.  If you disable UPNP now, that will ensure that when you switch the modem back into Gateway mode thru the user interface, that UPNP will be off when the modem starts operating in Bridge mode. 

[Datalink]

@aelaan, with reference to your comment on wifi rates, can you have a look at the following post, specifically the sections on wifi settings and monitoring your wifi environment.  Hopefully that will help.

http://communityforums.rogers.com/t5/Internet/slow-wifi/m-p/399949#M47222

Is the modem sitting upright?  I'm surprised at your comment regarding the heat that the modem emits. 

[mr_interested]

Thanks for the response.

I have gone ahead and put it in bridged mode.

I am now currently testing it and it seems i have the same issue many others here have posted. Whereby i can't seem to get decent download speeds through my Netgear Nighthawk router.  Download speeds through my netgear router seem to be capped at 250Mbps when using the internet regardless if i am wired or using 5G Wifi AC with my Gigabit Intel NIC or intel AC wifi.  I was able to get much higher ~600Mbps when directly connected to the Rogers Hitron CODA-852U both Wired or over its 5G wifi AC connection.

I have verified that the standard culprits (proper cables, proper NIC link speeds, rebooted router) are all ok. This capped speed must be some setting or issue with My Netgear router.  I have checked things like QOS which was always off, and SIP alg is also off on router. There really isn't that many settings to adjust on the Factory Firmware so I am not sure why it goes so slow, given that i get much faster speeds when i use my local Intranet with the same netgear router (either via wifi or wired). For example i can easily push Files locally from PC to PC or my server at well over 500+ Mbps using the same Netgear router.

Looks like I have some extra reading to do to figure out why this is going so slow through my router. 

[Datalink]

@mr_interested running stock firmware or DD-WRT?  

Try kicking the modem back into Gateway mode using 192.168.100.1 to access the modem.  Then just for trial purposes, keep the router connected and see what you get for ethernet data rates thru the router.  Don't worry about the firewall on the router, you'll end up with a secondary firewall which shouldn't make difference.  I do this with my Asus router when running tests with the modem as I'm too lazy to reconfigure the router.  

Edit:  Have a look at the following thread:

https://community.netgear.com/t5/Nighthawk-WiFi-Routers/Does-QOS-disable-CTF-Hardware-acceleration/t...

After you disabled QOS, reboot the router to see if that changes the CTF state.  With the Asus routers, there are other functions that will disable CTF, such as traffic monitoring, filtering, etc, etc.  I would suggest a factory reset on the router followed by a close inspection of all of the functions.  Turn off everything except for the firewall and any packet scanning functions.  See if that makes a difference in the throughput for the router. 

Edit 2:  In case you are running DD-WRT, have a look at the following thread concerning CTF.  Its a little dated now, but still applicable in the case of DD-WRT:

https://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=1049630

[aelaan]

@Datalink I had already gone through that excellent write up.  I am in a residential area and luckily found some quiet channel range to be used. 

Yes the modem is standing upright, it is fully populated but I have a lot, and I mean a whole lot, of wireless connections in my place.  I have at least two laptops connected, plus a phone and two tablets, wife and daughter each at least 1 laptop and a tablet and their phone.  We have three TV's and one of them is always streaming something in the afternoon, be it netflix or be amazon video.  Right now it is lukewarm, but in the evening hours it seems to get much hotter.  Most wireless connects at N or AC, I do not use B at all any more.  The modem is basically in the open, lots of airflow around it, the room where it resides is around 20 degrees C.  I think it could be surrounding equipment, like the TV that is causing more heat in one spot, will look into that.

[Datalink]

Maybe its just a matter of a high data throughput and wifi use that's causing the modem to run hot.  More load, more heat......  Your comment is the first that I've seen indicating that the modem runs hot.  

[aelaan]

I will measure the heat dissipating from it over a couple of nights throw it in a little graph and see if there is a correlation, other than this I am super stoked with this device and with the throughput we are getting.

[TECHHEAD]

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@Datalinkwrote:

Edit:  one additional point, Rogers modems, in Bridge mode will support more than one device connected to the modem.  The modems will supply two IPV4 addresses and apparently an unlimited number of IPV6 addresses, so, you can have two devices running in Dual Stack mode (IPV4 and IPV6), and in theory, additional devices connected running IPV6 only.  I run two routers for test purposes and that works very well.  

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Thank you @Datalink, this is exactly the info I was looking for.

Do the devices attached to the bridge need to be routers?

I tested this last night, very bottom port my Asus router and on the next port up, my laptop.

Router gets an IP and can surf the net.

Laptop would not get an IP address, is there something I need to do for it to get an address?

[HughR]

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@TECHHEADwrote:

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Do the devices attached to the bridge need to be routers?

---

No.  Nothing knows what kind of device you attach.  Basically, the device needs to be a DHCP client.

Do remember that any device should be secured: any bad guy on the internet can address the device.  Your device is not "protected" by NAT.

The common wisdom is that most Windows users don't know how to secure a Windows system.  I don't either (because I don't use Windows) so I won't try to advise on you how to do this.

[lethalsniper]

The last time I bridged my modem and hooked up my router then plugged in the 1st Xbox one to the router that worked fine but when I hooked up the other Xbox one to the coda on port2 I would keep on loosing connection

[TECHHEAD]

@HughR,

ThanX for the quick reply.

I just needed to confirm that a second device can be added to another switch port on the 4582.

Not sitting a standalone PC directly on an internet port.

I was looking at adding wireless capability out in my workshop.

I have a Cisco 3602i AP in Autonomous mode and want to take it out to my garage to add WiFi out there.

Doing some reading, unfortunately I will have to sit the AP behind a router.

[Datalink]

@TECHHEAD, with both devices connected and running, reboot/restart the modem.  Pull the power from the modem and plug it back in to force a restart.  

If the laptop still doesn't receive an IP address, disconnect the router and then reboot the modem.  The laptop should at that point pick up an IP address after the modem reboot.  It will then have a new ethernet profile generated by the connection to the modem.  As was pointed out, the laptop is on its own, in terms of any defence from port scanning miscreants out on the internet, so, I wouldn't leave it connected for very long.  No doubt there are people who run with direct internet connections, but, I don't advise it except for extremely short test runs of some type, after which its time to retreat behind a firewall.  

Ok, so, assuming that the laptop has an IP address at this point, reconnect the router and ensure that it picks up its IP address.  If it doesn't, once again, reboot the modem.  

Fwiw, that's the routine that I had to go thru a few weeks ago, get the modem to assign an IP address to each device with a single connection, then switch to two connected devices.  Just to see what would happen today, after seeing your post, I fired up the second router that I have connected to the modem and it picked up its IP address right away, without any issues.  I've never had any issues with losing connections as I run the second router for days on end for test purposes and would notice if it dropped a connection. 

[mr_interested]

I have tried your suggestions:

Placing the Hitron modem back in Gateway mode while my router was still attached still results in the slow internet speeds (no change). It is clear that it is my router that is the weak link, since a direct connection to the Hitron gives decent speeds. 

My router is using the latest Stock firmware. QOS has never been on. There are very few options on Stock firmware and they are all basically off. I can't see anything else left for me to turn off.

I have run out of ideas. I may have to start a thread about this issue on the Netgear fourms to see if anyone there has any idea why this router does not want to play well with this Hitron modem.

Alternatively does anyone here know of any New modern enthusiast level Wifi router that would work well with this Hitron Modem (tested and known to work well)?  Ideally something with excellent Wifi range (one of the reasons i like my current Netgear router). As a last resort I may have to look for a new router should i not be able to solve my current issue.

[Datalink]

@mr_interested looking at the smallnetbuilder site, the review for the R7000 show throughput rates around 930/940 Mb/s:

WAN - LAN 931.4 Mbps

LAN - WAN 941.7 Mbps

The R7000 has a Broadcom BCM4709A0(1 GHz, 2 cores), which is a little faster than an Asus RT-AC68U (800 Mhz processor).  With the 68U running only the firewall, wifi and the AI Protection, it will max out around 900 to 910 Mb/s.  So, from what I've read I'd expect the R7000 to be slightly faster, depending on what functions are running.  

When you've finished disabling the various functions, reboot the router as I don't know if the simple act of disabling the offending functions will enable Broadcom's CTF.  A reboot might be required to reenable the CTF.

Do you happen to have a gigabit switch available for test purposes?  If so, try this:  park the switch between the modem and the router and see if that changes the speedtest results.  That will isolate the router from the modem which should alleviate any incompatibilities between the two.  PWhen you run the speedtest use the www.speedtest.net Toronto or Montreal Rogers servers.  The Toronto server is a 10 Gb/s server, so it has the horsepower to run gigabit speedtests.  I suspect that the Montreal server is the same, but, don't quote me on that one.  If you run this test please let me know what the results are.

If that still doesn't work, I would think that there is still some function running that is disabling CTF, or, perhaps there's a firmware issue as listed below.

Also, have a look at the following Netgear thread concerning the effect of recent firmware versions on the router's throughput:

https://community.netgear.com/t5/Nighthawk-WiFi-Routers/Netgear-Nighthawk-R7000-Slow-Internet-Speed-...

[Eusquesio]

For some reason the 2.4 ghz wifi on my CODA 4582u is not working properly. I get speed of 30mbps on speedtest.net even a couple meters away from the modem. Rarely, out of the blue i reach 90mbps. Range is also really short.

On the 5ghz wifi everything is fine and i get 190 mbps (i have 150u plan).

I tried fiddling with anything i could, changing channels, setting N only, trying different encryptions, nothing seems to be working. Any idea why? thanks

Hardware Version 1A
Software Version 2.0.10.28T2

[Datalink]

@Eusquesio can you have a look at the following post, specifically at the sections regarding wifi settings and monitoring your wifi environment:

http://communityforums.rogers.com/t5/Internet/slow-wifi/m-p/399949#M47222

I suspect that when you look at all of the other 2.4 Ghz modems and routers running nearby, you'll find that you have a lot of competition for any of those channels.  You might determine that the 2.4 Ghz band is hopeless due to the competition.  So, have a look at the post, load Acrylic and possibly inSSIDer and see whats running nearby.  inSSIDer is easy to use and understand, even if that version is a little old now, but for 2.4 Ghz channels its fine.  

[Eusquesio]

I have performed scans of any type, but the point is that I had absolutely no problems of any sort with my beloved cgn3ac. It was so fast! I have recently switched (for the second time) to the CODA and I have a feeling I will have to go exchange it again. I liked the idea that it has more antennas and that is mimo and other things, but wifi on this modem really sucks... at least compared to the cgn3ac. It is pretty much unusable downstairs where I could get a pretty good connection with my old modem. Anybody had the same problems with the CODA?

Could it be my firmware version? 2.0.10.28T2

Also, is it possible to disable WMM? I think it could help. 

[aelaan]

First and foremost sorry to hear you have issues, I know how frustrating it can be to have slower wireless or hardware not acting up to its expectations.  There is indeed a newer firmware, it did not help much with my situation.  I sit at 3 meters from the modem (10 feet) and use wireless as my systems do not have any other options.  They are all AC wireless and I set the modem to only serve this.  The 5Ghz band is, however, less powerful than expected.  I think the placement of the modem is critical to support a full home, but in my case, this is not possible as my demarc is in my office.  I am thinking of looking into a mesh network to tie into the modem.  I hooked my work laptop in it with a wire and saw speeds around 700Mb down and 30Mb up which is not the best but acceptable.  Wireless on that laptop drops it down to 200Mb with the modem getting extremely hot to the touch - getting a bbq thermo to check the heat better.  Can you check your temperatures too?  I have mostly switched to 2.4, for now, to get coverage in all rooms in my little house.

[mr_interested]

@Datalink 

I agree that my router on paper should have sufficient computational resources to handle Gigabit internet; thus the reason i am surprised at how poorly it currently works. As i mentioned i am able to get good Intra-net speeds through the same router when pushing files between PC's in my home.  There must be some incompatibility between the Hitron and my router that is causing my issues, and as of now I have yet to isolate what the culprit is ( i have disabled everything on the factory firmware on this router). 

One new bit of news.. My brother who lives in the same neighborhood also upgraded yesterday to the same Rogers Gigabit internet and also received the exact same Hitron CODA-4582U modem, which he is using with the exact same model of Netgear router that i use.  I can report that he is also having the exact same issue i am facing.  So now i know that i am not alone with this issue. 

It is possible that it may be a firmware issue on my router. It currently has the newest factory firmware which was updated not to long ago as part of patching some serious security issues which were faced by pretty much every network hardware on the market. It is possible that in patching the security issues there may have been some performance penalties (although i would not have expected such performance hits to be this drastic). I would prefer to continue on the latest firmware or something newer, and not have to downgrade due to the patched security issues.

One thing i have also noticed is how my Hitron modem does not appear to have the latest firmware on it as reported by others here in this thread. I currently have the older 2.0.10.28T2. I have no idea if the newer firmware would help in any way regarding my issue.

So far i have done my tests by either being directly connected to the Hitron modem, or to my router, i have yet to do any testing of speeds once the internet is psssed through my various managed and un-managed gigabit switches. I can possibly try your other suggestion of putting a switch between the router and the modem, at some later date, in order to see if that helps shed further light on the issue. However i think based on what i have seen so far it really looks like its some compatibility issue between the modem and the router.  One thing i would like to try is using another router that is known to work well with this modem so i am open to suggestions from others who have a decent working setup with this modem.

Since you mentioned it, here are a few the sites i generally use to test speeds.

speedtest.net (various servers)

speedtest.googlefiber.net

performance.cira.ca

fast.com

speed test search in google which brings up google mlabs test

Steam downloads

Other downloads etc..

Thanks for your continued support and suggestions. 

[HughR]

@mr_interested: a few random points.

It might be helpful if you mentioned which router you have.  Several different ones are named "Netgear Nighthawk".

As you said, your problem seems to be the router.  Fora dealing with routers, especially Netgear routers, are probably more helpful.  But do keep us up to date.

When replying to a message in such a long thread, consider saying at the top to whom you are replying and reviewing the context of your post.

As far as router reviews, I've found http://smallnetbuilder.com/ to be pretty good.

Because most router's firmware is closed source in some critical parts, most of the performance discussion treats it as a black box.  Often opinions that feel like superstition are put forward.  It is a bit of a mess.

One clear technical point, which you seem to know, is that many high-performance home routers have hardware support for NAT, that this hardware makes a significant difference at gigabit speeds, that this hardware only works in certain situations (i.e. with only a few options), and that this hardware is proprietary so that upstream linux kernels will probably never support it.  I mention this because the performance problem could be caused by this (although you seem to have tried to deal with this).  I don't know which options can cause performance problems.  (I don't use one of these routers.)

As gigabit speeds get more common, surely we'll get new routers engineered for these speeds.  On the other hand, fancy wireless routers for the home are hitting very high prices.  I'm getting more smug about my decision to use mini-PCs as my gateways.  I'm using Zotac ZBoxes that have two ethernet interfaces; I pick them up when I find them cheap.  But I've only done a tiny amount of performance testing.

[daveinsurgent]

The R7000 Nighthawk by Netgear can do 900+ Mbps only without certain features on.  You must make sure that QoS is disabled, or you won't break 300. Sorry, I didn't read all of your posts or the thread history, but I had an R7000 and had the same thing. It is a Broadcom based SoC and they are only good for turning electricity in to heat.

The smallnetbuilder reports are basically when the device is 'cheating' by working as a switch that can do basic NAT.  QoS and other things can cause this "acceleration" to be disabled (because the feature requires inspecting packets) and the CPU just can't do it at gigabit rate.

The CODA-4852 should be superior to the R7000 in essentially every aspect.  If the wireless isn't great, and you think it's because of external antennas, you could try putting the R7000 in to AP mode and leaving the CODA to do the routing. This may also be ideal just because you dedicate devices - the R7000 will spend its time doing WPA/etc and the CODA will do the NAT.

Like @HughR, I too have dedicated appliances for routing, switching, and wireless access.