- last edited on by
RogersMaude
Announced 13-December-2016 by @RogersDave http://communityforums.rogers.com/t5/forums/forumtopicpage/board-id/Getting_connected/message-id/379...
Credit to @Hybrid_Noodle
Hitron website: http://www.hitron-americas.com/product/coda-4582/
Datasheet: http://www.hitron-americas.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/CODA-4582-Datasheet.pdf
60W Power Supply built into unit
Pictures of Hardware Version 1A:
***Added Labels***
Yup, understand. Do you run the speedtest via wifi or ethernet as indicated above? Was Cat 5 or 5e ethernet installed as well? If so, that can help when it comes to running data all over the house.
@Hiitchy wrote:
@Datalink: Thank you for your reply!
I will give Rogers Technical support another call tomorrow to sort this out. I just wasn't sure what to ask as I'm not very technologically versed when it comes to networking and this kind of stuff. I will take your advice and keep the modem be though.
If the black dots are just there for the shielding which I highly doubt I'll need since I've already bridged over to a TP-Link router, then I definitely won't exchange it, but thank you once again for this information. It's always good to know what something means rather than searching for it through posts.
See the really interesting thing is that I have a One in, 5 out splitter in the basement (all -7db out) and upstairs in the living room I have a 1 in, 3 out (2x -7db, 1x -3.5db) splitter. Both are from antronix and were from the previous Rogers installation when my entire house was wired at one point. I have managed to isolate the cables that I require connection from, but I definitely do need a technician to come in from the looks of it to sort out my mistakes.
As for the signal levels, the ones I have posted are where the modem meets a splitter in order to get the connection it needs. I have done direct connections from the wall to the modem with the same results where channels 1 to 32 were averaging anywhere between -9 to -11dBmV, and the signal noise ration was between 37 - 38.000dB. I think there may have been a misconception between what he was saying to me. I was explaining that I'm not getting anywhere near even 500Mbps, the CSR explained that at least I have a connection and that I should consider swapping out the modem because sometimes there are faulty batches of the modems shipped out to the stores.
I honestly have no clue what is going on with my system at the moment, and I actually requested that a field technician come to my house and sort out my wiring issues so I know that at least Rogers did it. I really don't trust my wiring configuration because I've only done something like this once or twice before. It definitely is disappointing that I am getting the same speeds I was trying to get away from!
I've noted your recommendation to call a field tech. I'm going to call in tomorrow and go through with the signal test, I'm hoping they'll understand what I mean and things /finally/ work out.
I've attached an image that depicts exactly what I've done with the cables. Even when I looked at it, in theory it /looks/ right, but in real world examples, I know this definitely isn't acceptable and may be why I'm getting such a poor signal. Tomorrow morning before I call in, I plan on running a direct line from the splitter where the demarcation point is directly into the modem to see if it is definitely a wiring issue, which seems to be the case now. In the image I currently have the modem wired to the -7db connection, but even as it was on the -3.5db connection, the result was the same, and I'm assuming that's because I've been feeding a -7.5db output to an input and it can't adjust properly? I wouldn't know.
Hopefully this answers all your questions.
If you want to try and fix this yourself you should run the setup like this:
-Remove the first 4 way splitter, just use the 2nd 3 way splitter.
-Demarc drop into the 3 way splitter.
7.5 Output to HD PVR
7.5 Output to 2nd Floor HDTV
3.5 Output to CODA 4582
After that factory reset the CODA (use a pen tip to press and hold the reset button on the back of the modem for 10 seconds).
Setup the CODA again and run an ethernet cable from your computer to the CODA then run a speed test.
That won't work as there is only a one single cable that runs from the first splitter to the next splitter. As a result, the second splitter is required to feed the internet modem and second HD receiver. There is no way around that one unless a second RG-6 cable is installed. That would be the preferable course of action as it results in a single splitter instead of two. I suspect that the cable comes in thru the basement, so, one run to the main floor and one run to the upstairs room. That leaves you with no choice but to split the main floor feed at the main floor cable port.
What can be done in the mean time is to swap the splitters and use the -3.5 db port to feed the second splitter. At the very least, both signal levels for the internet modem and second HD receiver would be 3.5 db higher. Every db counts in situations like this.
@Hiitchy the frequency range for the cable system runs from 5 to 1 Ghz. If there is any chance of you deciding to run your HD receivers in Whole Home PVR mode or if you decide to install a Multimedia over Coax Alliance (MoCA) 2.0 Network adapter to run ethernet over the cable system, you will need to run higher frequencies as the MoCA 2.0 frequencies run above 1 Ghz, so, long answer, buy a satellite capable splitter such as this:
https://www.lowes.ca/coax-cable-components/ideal-zinc-2-way-coax-video-cable-splitter_g1190320.html
Here is the MoCA 2.0 adapter:
https://www.actiontec.com/products/home-networking/ecb6000/
You should also replace the F-splice adapters in your wallplates with the following which also support higher frequencies. If the wallplates are a few years old, there is a good chance that they have adapters which do not support frequencies up to 1 Ghz. It all depends on the dielectric material in the adapter. The adapters indicated below will support the cable system as well as the MoCA 2.0 frequencies.
https://www.lowes.ca/coax-cable-components/ideal-3-ghz-f-splice-adapter-4-pack_g1200823.html
As for the interesting result with the smart phone the speeds that you see via ethernet are all dependant on the ethernet port capabilities. When you connect a laptop to the modem, check the connected port LED at the back of the modem. It should be Amber in colour, denoting a 1 Gb/s connection with the laptop. Same goes for any connected device. Green denotes a connection to a 10/100 Mb/s port.
If you know that the port on the laptop or pc is a 1 Gb/s port, then the following require examination:
1. Disconnect and reconnect both ends of the ethernet cable on the chance that either end is not sitting properly in the port;
2. Swap the ethernet cable with a Cat 5e or Cat 6 cable that is known to be in working order. There is always the possibility that the cable has been damaged and no longer supports 1 Gb/s connections, or, that the cable is a fast ethernet cable which only supports 100 Mb/s. To run 1 Gb/s, all four wire pairs in the cable must be connecting end to end.
3. Right click on the internet connect symbol in the right hand side of the taskbar. Open the Network and Sharing Center. Select the "Ethernet" link on the middle right hand side of the page to bring up the Ethernet Status popup. The speed that is indicated is the port to port connection rate. It should show 1 Gb/s. When the laptop is running wifi, this will indicate the wifi connect rate, port to port which includes wifi overhead. The actual wifi user data throughput will be less than what is indicated.
4. If you don't see 1 Gb/s, perhaps only 100 Mb/s, select "Change Adapter Settings" from the Network and Sharing Center. Right click on the Ethernet Adapter to bring up the Ethernet Properties popup. Select Configure .... Advanced. Check the Speed & Duplex setting to ensure that its set for either 1 Gb/s or Auto Negotiation. Now, just to note, if the laptop port is only capable of 100 Mb/s that Auto Negotiation will not tell you the max data rate. It depends on the manufacturer. Some will indicate Auto Negotiation on the drop down menu, so you have to know what the port is capable of, and some will indicate the max rate. You'll have to figure that out when you get there.
When you run an ethernet speed test, either thru the modem or router, you should see the same result. If you see that the throughput thru the router is less than thru the modem, that could be the result of the router connecting at 100 Mb/s instead of 1 Gb/s, which can be confirmed by looking at the connected port LED at the back of the modem, or, it could result from the router functions slowing the throughput. To run 1 Gb/s rates thru any consumer router these days, the choice comes down to throughput versus functions. Anything such as Traffic Monitoring, QOS and any other function that requires the router CPU to evaluate the data and then do something with it will cost in terms of the router thoughput. That's the same for all routers, so, in many cases that we've seen in the forum, the best approach is to run a factory reset on the router, then disable all of the functions except for the firewall, DOS protection and wifi and then run a speedtest to see where you're at. Then, if you want to run a function of some type, enable it and run a speedtest to determine if it will cost anything in terms of throughput. At speeds like 100 to 200 Mb/s, router functions probably won't cost anything in terms of throughput, but at 1 Gb/s, the same function can result in a considerable drop in throughput.
When the modem is running in Bridge mode with the router connected, you can connect another device to the modem via ethernet and receive both IPV4 and IPV6 addresses for the second device. The modem will support a second IPV4 IP address for the second device. You can do this to test the throughput to the laptop while the modem is running in Bridge mode, just remember that the laptop has to rely on its own firewall for protection. I only recommend this for very short tests, after which its time to retreat behind a router firewall. What you should see is that the data rates are the same, through the modem, and then through the router. So, connect the laptop, start or reboot the laptop so that it picks up the new IP address, run the speedtest and then disconnect the laptop. You should see that the connected port LED at the back of the modem is Amber for a 1 Gb/s connection.
Another possibility that comes to mind is the IPV6 throughput thru the router. On my Asus RT-AC68U I can usually see over 900 Mb/s down, +55 Mb/s up running an IPV4 test. If I enable IPV6 and run an IPV6 speedtest I'll see a greatly reduced data rate due to the packet scans that the router's AI Protection runs on IPV6 data. So, that is yet another item to examine, whether or not the router is running IPV6 or not.
There is always the possibility that the laptop port only runs at 100 Mb/s. We've seen that issue come up several times as well, which is very unfortunate. Brand new laptops often arrive with 100 Mb/s ports and sometimes with 2.4 Ghz wifi as well instead of dual band 2.4 and 5 Ghz wifi. That leads to a few hours of frustration as the owner figures out that the manufacturer has cheaped out on an expensive laptop.
Ok, there are a few items to check thru all of this. Let me know what you find out thru all of this.
One note, on the off chance that you run or want to run the HD Receivers in Whole Home PVR mode, you will need a MoCA filter installed prior to the first splitter. Ask the tech to install one. That prevents the MoCA data from exiting your own internal cable sytem and becoming accessible by some of your neighbors. If that happens, your neighbors can see what is recorded on your receivers and delete or set up recordings. We've seen that happen as well, so, I think its worth having one installed, even if you don't make use of it at this point in time.
Also indicate that you haven't used the cable system for a few years, so, the tech will have to inspect the cable system internally as well as externally and replace any cables and/or connectors that haven't survived exposure to the elements. Both of those don't last forever and every once in a while require replacement.
I belive on the other CODA modem thread.. there is a bug with some android phones and the current firmware.
@boozilla, I have updated your modem to firmware version 2.0.10.26T2.
Let us know if it works better for you.
Dave
@seeps03 my guess would be competition from your neighbors modems and routers for the same 2.4 Ghz channels. In my neighborhood, there are approximately 35 to 40 modems and routers in operation, possibly more. That makes the 2.4 Ghz band all but unusable. The first place to start is to look at your wifi environment using one of the following applications:
http://www.techspot.com/downloads/5936-inssider.html
https://www.acrylicwifi.com/en/wlan-software/wlan-scanner-acrylic-wifi-free/
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wifi_information_view.html
Thats the last freebie version of inSSIDer and at this point in time is getting a little old. Its fine for 2.4 Ghz application and does work for 802.11n 5 Ghz networks. It does display 802.11ac networks but not as well as it should. This has become a licenced application now for $20 US and works very well for both frequency bands, 2.4 and 5 Ghz.
The other applications are fine for 802.11ac. Acrylic is graphical, WifiInfoView is text only.
What you want to do is determine what channels in are occupied and if so, which offers the least competition in terms of signal level for any given channel. If you can find a channel that is not occupied (highly unlikely), that will be the best choice, but, with 2.4 Ghz wifi, thats pretty hard to do. One of the good things about 2.4 Ghz wifi is that it has a pretty good range. One of the bad things about 2.4 Ghz wifi is that it has a pretty good range. Good when its just you and your modem or router, bad when you have to compete with all of your neighbors modem's and routers.
One other part of this problem is the actual user device. Some only have a single antenna, the majority probably have two antenna, and a few might have three or four antenna. The higher the number of antenna, the better performance you will see due to antenna diversity. It takes a little research, starting with the wifi adapter on the device to determine how many antenna might be installed on any given device.
Lastly, the Hitron modems have not been noted to be stellar wifi devices. For anyone who lives on wifi, my advice is to buy a good router with external antenna which will provide better wifi performance and access to all of the router and wifi settings.
So, have a look at the wifi environment situation and let us know what you find.
@seeps03 ok, just to be sure, you're running the white CODA-4582 now?
If so, and the wifi quits while its operating, that is something that @RogersDave would probably be very interested in.
The distinction here is whether its a case of wifi interference from neighboring wifi emitters, or, if the modem stops transmitting the 2.4 Ghz wifi network all of a sudden, while at the same time, (if you were to look at the 2.4 Ghz wifi network settings in the modem), it shows enabled. To ensure that the modem isn't transmitting the network you would have to use something like inSSIDer or equivalent to look for the presence or absence of your wifi network.
So, if this is the case, that the modem stops transmitting the wifi network while its still enabled in the modem, please send @RogersDave a private message with a brief outline of what you're seeing in terms of the problem.
Follow this link to the public page for @RogersDave and then select the link on the right hand side to "Send this user a private message" to navigate to the message composition page. It will already be addressed.
Fill in the title (with something like) : CODA-4582 2.4 Ghz wifi issue
In the text area, add your modems: MAC Address
Serial Number
They can be found in the Status page when you log into the modem or on the back of the modem. They can be copied from the Status page and pasted into the message to save some typing.
When you're logged into the forum, watch for a number overlaid on your avatar at the top right hand corner signifying a response from one of Dave. Select that link and follow it down to your message inbox.
While you are logged into the modem, can you check the Software (firmware) version that is currently loaded. It might be 2.0.10.26T2, although you might not see the last T2. Please let me know what version you have loaded.
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