Yup, sounds ok to me.
What you can do with pingplotter, is use the address on the second line as your target server. Just copy that address and paste it into the address bar and ping the CMTS. Change the time on the bottom to something like 5 or 10 minutes or longer. When you do that you will see plots that look very similar to the plots contained in the first and second row of my image library:
http://communityforums.rogers.com/t5/media/gallerypage/user-id/829158
That is what the Rogers engineering staff, along with Casa and Hitron are working to resolve, as you pointed out in the above image. The high ping times raise the average ping, in my case from 10 ms to a 20 to 30 ms range.
just a side note, what also concerns me is the routing compared to my buddy in oakville (I presume he is still on a cisco cmts I can ask him to check later), you can clearly see an issue in the following image, this results in an average of 30ms+ more ping for me compared to him to the same servers that we both connect to:
@Pina2072, first thing I would do is run a factory reset on the modem. That can be done by pressing the recessed reset button at the back of the modem for 30 seconds and releasing it, which will initiate a factory reset and follow on reboot. You can also do this by logging into the modem, navigating to ADMIN....DEVICE RESET and run the Factory Reset function. The only drawback to this is that you will have to reenter the modem parameters when its done. Ensure that the wifi security mode is set to WPA2 only, and that the encryption is set to AES only. Do not select TKIP/AES as TKIP is no longer secure and its also not compatible with 802.11n.
When that is done and the modem wifi is up and running, its time to have a look at the wifi environment. There is a chance that this is merely a coincidence, poor wifi and the upgrade occurring at the same time. Perhaps a neighbor has set up a new modem or router that is now competing with your network for the same channel. You could also do this as a first step, just to check on this possibility, although I would still recommend completing the factory reset.
Load inSSIDer on your laptop, which is a wifi monitoring application. When loaded on a dual band laptop, inSSIDer will monitor both 2.4 and 5 Ghz networks that can be detected by your laptop. Have a look to see what you're competing with in both bands. In a suburban area, the 2.4 Ghz band is usually pretty crowded and tough to work in. Usually the 5 Ghz band is less crowded and easier to find a clear channel. After you have a look at the display, you might be able to determine if there are any 2.4 or 5 Ghz channels that are not in use, or offer less interference. Thats usually pretty tough with 2.4. Ghz channels as the only channels that don't overlap with each other is 1, 6, and 11. As a result, everyone tries to use those channels. The program link below is for the last freebie version. It doesn't display the 802.11ac networks in use in the 5 Ghz band. There is a newer licenced version is out now that will handle 802.11ac networks, and which will work on a 802.11n laptop. The new version will read the broadcast management frames and display the 802.11ac networks that are running in the 5 Ghz band. If you use 5 Ghz networks, its worth the $20 U.S. to buy, so that you can see all of the 5 Ghz networks that are in use. If you make use of the 5 Ghz band for your network, then I highly recommend the licenced version.
http://www.techspot.com/downloads/5936-inssider.html
What you want to see on the graphical display is that your network is the highest network shown, which indicates that it has the highest received power of all the received networks. Generally you want somewhere in the neighborhood of 40 to 45 dBmW separation between your network and any other network that is on the same or overlapping channel. So, while your network should be the tallest on the display, everything else should be well below yours. When that power level separation decreases, you end up with interference and possibly with problems maintaining a wifi network. Your only option is to change to a channel with less overlap from the competition. By looking at that display you might conclude that the 2.4 Ghz band is hopeless and that its time to move up to the 5 Ghz band, if you can. If you have devices already running in the 5 Ghz band, change your operating channel to 149 or higher. If you can switch to any of those channels, do so, as the output power for those channels is higher, resulting in better signal levels, signal to noise ratios and data rates.
So, with inSSIDer loaded on your laptop, take a walk around your home. Take a look at the display when you're close to the modem, and where you normally use your laptop. Essentially, you're doing a site survey. It takes about three to four minutes for the display to settle out when you move around and stop in a location somewhere. You should see some differences in the received network power levels as you move around your home, both for your own network, and those of your neighbors.
What you can do is take a screenshot of the inSSIDer display, dump it into something like Microsoft paint and wipe out your MAC address from the text and display area and then save it. Insert it into a post so I can have a look at it if you need help with the interpretation. With the info provided by the inSSIDer display it will be easier to determine what the problem might be.
Please let us know what you find.
Have a look at message # 471 (top post) on the following page for the instruction on requesting the trial version, 4.5.8.22 which will resolve the chromecast issues.
http://communityforums.rogers.com/t5/forums/forumtopicpage/board-id/Getting_connected/message-id/348...
Thought I should report back on the network connections and noises issues I had a week or two ago (last thread - MESSAGE 481).
Two days after Tech Support opened a network performance ticket, I was home and found really bad connections again, and as @Datalink suggested ;-), I didn't think twice this time and called into Tech Support. Was on the phone with the rep, and she ran signal tests on her side, and also having me disconnted everything and restested. The packet losses were between 25 - 40% over the time I talked to her. She added all these to my ticket. A day after that, I got notification that they started worked on my ticket, and another notification later. Not sure what they found and did, but my Internet connections became stable and consistent since then. After a few stable days on Router mode, I switched back to Bridge mode, and things have been so far so good (and even the 192.168.100.1 working all the time - even I didn't have to, I did add later a static route to be double sure). I did ping tests all the times, and noticed quite some difference. What used to be an often fail/time-out on my first leg (I think between my modem and the CMTS) now seems not a problem. And I also saw some better downstream signals. Keeping my fingers crossed.
On another question, now that things are stable, I'm thinking of upgrading my wifi router (it's a RT-N66U). Looking at both RT-AC68U and RT-AC87U. Very tempted to go with the 87U for only 50 bucks more, but heard stories about it.... Any feedback on that, and also I assume it won't cause issues with the CGN3ACSMR?
Don't go anywhere near the 87U. That router has been nothing but trouble for a large number of people. There is an updated version of the RT-AC68U called the RT-AC1900P.
https://www.asus.com/Networking/RT-AC1900P/
http://www.snbforums.com/search/348303/?q=RT-AC1900P&o=date&c[node]=47
My AC68U runs an 800 Mhz processor, whereas the AC1900P has a 1.4 Ghz processor. Other than the processor, this is the same router. The only concern that I have is cooling the faster processor. I suspect that it might run hot, but I haven't seen any comments indicating any problems because of it. The faster processor should definitely help with gigabit service, or if you're using any VPN service.
I can vouch for the AC68U. Ours has been rock solid, never had any issues with it. The only time that its down is for a firmware update.
Asus has recently locked out previous firmware versions and other third party firmware that aren't compatible with its new header scheme. This is due to rule changes by Industry Canada and the U.S. FCC to prevent users from changing the available frequencies or power output levels. Merlin has recently released a compatible version, don't know about DD-WRT So, once you update the firmware to a recent stock or Merlin version, the only way back to previous versions is thru the forced update procedure, however, there is little requirement to go back, personal opinion of course, as this would take the router back to a version prior to some security updates.
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