We have been trying this firmware and ever since we have our wifi has become very slow and 70% of the time it stops working...
Do you have any advice as to how to correct this
I have a Hitron CGN3ACSMR running Trial firmware 184.108.40.206 in Bridge mode. My Router is the Ubiguiti EdgeRouter-Lite. The Router does gets ipv6 addresses to the WAN port and 3 VLANs I have defined --- however as of yesterday each time I test using »ipv6-test.com/ I get ipv6 not supported.
On the Hitron I have been using the bottom 2 ports for Internet --- I am testing out some new routers --- and all the gear attached do get ipV6 addresses for the WAN and VLANs defined but as off yesterday ipv6 Tests fail --- so I am wondering what's happening?
BTW, as a heads up --- IF you have installed the Windows 10 Anniversary Update the ICMPv6 tests will fail [you will only get a 17/20] reported by »ipv6-test.com/ -- so far I have not found a fix for that.
Thank you for pushing v22 of the modem firmware. My problems with Chromcast were resolved and overall WiFi networks behaviour and usability is improved (I have mutiple devices connected to my network, both 2.4 and 5G), 3 Chromcasts, WiFi extender and so on.
I will report on issues in case I face them going forward.
You are receiving packet loss after upgrading the modem firmware, or upgrading to gigabit internet?
Ask the tech when he comes to replace all the Cable connectors or check if they are oxidized and need replacing.
@Pina2072, first thing I would do is run a factory reset on the modem. That can be done by pressing the recessed reset button at the back of the modem for 30 seconds and releasing it, which will initiate a factory reset and follow on reboot. You can also do this by logging into the modem, navigating to ADMIN....DEVICE RESET and run the Factory Reset function. The only drawback to this is that you will have to reenter the modem parameters when its done. Ensure that the wifi security mode is set to WPA2 only, and that the encryption is set to AES only. Do not select TKIP/AES as TKIP is no longer secure and its also not compatible with 802.11n.
When that is done and the modem wifi is up and running, its time to have a look at the wifi environment. There is a chance that this is merely a coincidence, poor wifi and the upgrade occurring at the same time. Perhaps a neighbor has set up a new modem or router that is now competing with your network for the same channel. You could also do this as a first step, just to check on this possibility, although I would still recommend completing the factory reset.
Load inSSIDer on your laptop, which is a wifi monitoring application. When loaded on a dual band laptop, inSSIDer will monitor both 2.4 and 5 Ghz networks that can be detected by your laptop. Have a look to see what you're competing with in both bands. In a suburban area, the 2.4 Ghz band is usually pretty crowded and tough to work in. Usually the 5 Ghz band is less crowded and easier to find a clear channel. After you have a look at the display, you might be able to determine if there are any 2.4 or 5 Ghz channels that are not in use, or offer less interference. Thats usually pretty tough with 2.4. Ghz channels as the only channels that don't overlap with each other is 1, 6, and 11. As a result, everyone tries to use those channels. The program link below is for the last freebie version. It doesn't display the 802.11ac networks in use in the 5 Ghz band. There is a newer licenced version is out now that will handle 802.11ac networks, and which will work on a 802.11n laptop. The new version will read the broadcast management frames and display the 802.11ac networks that are running in the 5 Ghz band. If you use 5 Ghz networks, its worth the $20 U.S. to buy, so that you can see all of the 5 Ghz networks that are in use. If you make use of the 5 Ghz band for your network, then I highly recommend the licenced version.
What you want to see on the graphical display is that your network is the highest network shown, which indicates that it has the highest received power of all the received networks. Generally you want somewhere in the neighborhood of 40 to 45 dBmW separation between your network and any other network that is on the same or overlapping channel. So, while your network should be the tallest on the display, everything else should be well below yours. When that power level separation decreases, you end up with interference and possibly with problems maintaining a wifi network. Your only option is to change to a channel with less overlap from the competition. By looking at that display you might conclude that the 2.4 Ghz band is hopeless and that its time to move up to the 5 Ghz band, if you can. If you have devices already running in the 5 Ghz band, change your operating channel to 149 or higher. If you can switch to any of those channels, do so, as the output power for those channels is higher, resulting in better signal levels, signal to noise ratios and data rates.
So, with inSSIDer loaded on your laptop, take a walk around your home. Take a look at the display when you're close to the modem, and where you normally use your laptop. Essentially, you're doing a site survey. It takes about three to four minutes for the display to settle out when you move around and stop in a location somewhere. You should see some differences in the received network power levels as you move around your home, both for your own network, and those of your neighbors.
What you can do is take a screenshot of the inSSIDer display, dump it into something like Microsoft paint and wipe out your MAC address from the text and display area and then save it. Insert it into a post so I can have a look at it if you need help with the interpretation. With the info provided by the inSSIDer display it will be easier to determine what the problem might be.
Please let us know what you find.
My version says: "220.127.116.11" now.
Before the firmware push, Netflix worked with Chromecast but Shomi did not.
Now neither of them work.
Have a look at message # 471 (top post) on the following page for the instruction on requesting the trial version, 18.104.22.168 which will resolve the chromecast issues.
Thought I should report back on the network connections and noises issues I had a week or two ago (last thread - MESSAGE 481).
Two days after Tech Support opened a network performance ticket, I was home and found really bad connections again, and as @Datalink suggested ;-), I didn't think twice this time and called into Tech Support. Was on the phone with the rep, and she ran signal tests on her side, and also having me disconnted everything and restested. The packet losses were between 25 - 40% over the time I talked to her. She added all these to my ticket. A day after that, I got notification that they started worked on my ticket, and another notification later. Not sure what they found and did, but my Internet connections became stable and consistent since then. After a few stable days on Router mode, I switched back to Bridge mode, and things have been so far so good (and even the 192.168.100.1 working all the time - even I didn't have to, I did add later a static route to be double sure). I did ping tests all the times, and noticed quite some difference. What used to be an often fail/time-out on my first leg (I think between my modem and the CMTS) now seems not a problem. And I also saw some better downstream signals. Keeping my fingers crossed.
On another question, now that things are stable, I'm thinking of upgrading my wifi router (it's a RT-N66U). Looking at both RT-AC68U and RT-AC87U. Very tempted to go with the 87U for only 50 bucks more, but heard stories about it.... Any feedback on that, and also I assume it won't cause issues with the CGN3ACSMR?