@Dh5959, run a Factory reset on the modem and see it that clears up the issue. Depending on how far the firmware is updating, from the modem's original firmware to V4.5.8.22, you may have to run a Factory Reset to properly complete the update process. You can hold the recessed reset button at the back of the modem for thirty seconds and release it, or, if you''re logged into the modem, navigate to ADMIN .... DEVICE RESET and run the Restore Factory Default Settings function. You will unfortunately have to reset all of the parameters. If you haven't seen the new login after the reset, start a web browser and enter 192.168.0.1 as the web address. That takes you to the new set up page. The one thing to remember is that the wifi passphrase that you set on that page is also the new modem password.
To log back into the modem following that one time setup, use 192.168.0.1, and use the following credentials:
username: cusadmin
password: as you have just set for the wifi password
You can then navigate to the wifi or ADMIN .... MANAGEMENT pages to change the wifi passphrases or the modem password.
@dto7, I wonder if the update has resulted in a change of the wifi channel from where you were previously, to a channel that has interference issues which is causing the wifi to drop.
Try this. Load inSSIDer on your laptop, which is a wifi monitoring application. When loaded on a dual band laptop, inSSIDer will monitor both 2.4 and 5 Ghz networks that can be detected by your laptop. Have a look to see what you're competing with in both bands. After you have a look at the display, you might be able to determine if there are any 2.4 or 5 Ghz channels that are not in use, or offer less interference. That's usually pretty tough with 2.4. Ghz channels as the only channels that don't overlap with each other is 1, 6, and 11. As a result, everyone tries to use those channels. In the 5 Ghz band, the signal range is reduced compared to a 2.4 Ghz channel, so that, along with the fact there aren't as many users in the 5 Ghz band makes it easier to select an open channel. If you're using the 5 Ghz band, you want to be using channel 149 or higher as the modem will use a higher allowable power output for those channels, resulting in increased range. The program link below is for the last freebie version. It doesn't display the 802.11ac networks in use in the 5 Ghz band. There is a newer licenced version out now that will handle 802.11ac networks, and which will work on a 802.11n laptop. The new version will read the broadcast management frames and display the 802.11ac networks that are running in the 5 Ghz band. If you use 5 Ghz networks, its worth the $20 U.S. to buy, so that you can see all of the 5 Ghz networks that are in use.
http://www.techspot.com/downloads/5936-inssider.html
What you want to see on the graphical display is that your network is the highest network shown, which indicates that it has the highest received power of all the received networks. Generally you want somewhere in the neighborhood of 40 to 45 dBmW separation between your network and any other network that is on the same or overlapping channel. So, while your network should be the tallest on the display, everything else should be well below yours. When that power level separation decreases, you end up with interference and possibly with problems maintaining a wifi network. Your only option is to change to a channel with less overlap from the competition.
The other item to consider is to run a modem reset as indicated in Message #531 above. That will ensure that the modem update is properly completed.
@apdamato, have a look at message # 471 (top post) on the following page for the instruction on requesting the trial version, 4.5.8.22.
@Max24, when you run the modem in Gateway mode, the router should be set to run as an access point, in which case it would be invisible to the network and wouldn't show up on a trace. You can definitely run the router with its own IP address, but, in practice, doing anything like port forwarding from the modem to the router to the device can be an interesting challenge. I've never seen anyone claim to successfully do that.
I can't explain why you're seeing a different 99.xxx.xxx.xxx address for the CMTS when you flip between Bridge mode and Gateway mode. There's probably a reasonable technical reason for it which Dave could elaborate on.
Can you try the following? Run the same tests, but run two sets of tests, one with the Focus time of pingplotter set to All, and one with the Focus time set to 5 seconds. Set the bottom display time to 5 or 10 min and let the application run for that entire 5 or 10 min timeframe. Please run them in the following configurations::
1. Modem in Bridge mode, router in full router mode: run a ping to anywhere, then copy the line 2 address and paste that into the address bar. Run the ping test to that address which is the CMTS. Thats the 99.237.32.1 address in the first slide. Any packet loss that is directly attributable to the modem - cmts connection will show up in the lower area of the display. For the time being, ignore anything that occurs beyond the CMTS.
2. Modem in Gateway mode, router disconnected. Connect a pc / laptop directly to the modem, just to keep the addressing simple and straightforward. Same as above, run the ping test, following the same instructions. Thats the 99.224.30.1 address.
Capture and post the results, indicating which run is which. Since this is running IPV4, you can leave all of the details in the image. If you were running IPV6 you would only have to delete the IP address for line 1 which would be the modem or router's IP address, depending on what the network setup is. Seeing the ping times will help with the analysis. Right click in the column title bar, select MAX and Err and drag those to the right to sit beside the Avg and Min data.
Running the pingplot, only out to the CMTS address will readily display the ping times to the CMTS, and any packet loss to and from the CMTS, which should also be reflected on the lower time display. Anything further downstream will remain out of the picture for now. The goal is to determine the performance from the modem to the CMTS.
1. Can you confirm that you have a CGN3ACSMR as seen by the product sticker on the back of the modem?
And, can you log in to the modem and:
2. confirm the Software Version (firmware) as indicated on the Status page which comes up when you log into the modem. I'm wondering what version is loaded and why an IPV6 addresses are not showing up on the pingplot. Do you have IPV6 disabled in the router? If so, not a big deal, just wondering. If you have a CGN3ACSMR with V4.5.8.21 loaded, have you done a factory reset recently? I've seen unpredictable results if the modem has not had a factory reset completed.
3. navigate to the STATUS....DOCSIS WAN page, copy the downstream and upstream tables and paste them into a post. The copy and paste process will paste in the text contents of the tables, so you don't have to post a screen capture.
Ok, that should do it for now. To really asses the images, I/we need to see those times to the CMTS and any indications of packet loss to the CMTS.
Just wondering, the tech indicated that the riser cable is shorting. Is that to imply that you're in an apartment/condo/highrise?
@Max24, looking at your recent image posts, and thinking about the problem of packet loss, there are a couple of things you could try.
1. Move the modem to the splitter for test purposes. Depending on what else you are running, you could disconnect the splitter from the cable and connect the modem to the incoming cable. That would prove or disprove the theory that the riser cable has a short in it. If you still see packet loss, then the problem is most likely external to the house, but, keep in mind that if the incoming cable passes by any house power cable (in wall) that is subject to large current surges, like furnace motors, dryers, etc, the RG-6 cable can pick up noise.
2. If you have an ohm meter, you could disconnect the riser cable at both ends and run a continuity check on the cable, one lead on the center conductor and one lead on the external side of the connector. The continuity check should show an open circuit as the cable center copper conductor should not come into contact with the cable shield which could be either aluminum foil or braided aluminum. If the continuity check shows anything other than open circuit, then yes, it has a short. All it would take is a nail driven into the cable at some point. That might take years to show up, but at some point the copper oxidation would become a problem, even if the nail only nicked the cable. It would also be worth taking a very careful look at both ends of the cable to ensure that the copper center conductor doesn't contact any portion of the cable shield, no matter how small that cable shield portion might be, such as a thread from a braided aluminum shield. Time for the reading glasses or magnifying glass.
Hope this helps.
@qdu1128, try this. Load inSSIDer on your laptop, which is a wifi monitoring application. When loaded on a dual band laptop, inSSIDer will monitor both 2.4 and 5 Ghz networks that can be detected by your laptop. Have a look to see what you're competing with in both bands. In a suburban area, the 2.4 Ghz band is usually pretty crowded and tough to work in. Usually the 5 Ghz band is less crowded and easier to find a clear channel. After you have a look at the display, you might be able to determine if there are any 2.4 or 5 Ghz channels that are not in use, or offer less interference. Thats usually pretty tough with 2.4. Ghz channels as the only channels that don't overlap with each other is 1, 6, and 11. As a result, everyone tries to use those channels. The program link below is for the last freebie version. It doesn't display the 802.11ac networks in use in the 5 Ghz band. There is a newer licenced version out now that will handle 802.11ac networks, and which will work on a 802.11n laptop. The new version will read the broadcast management frames and display the 802.11ac networks that are running in the 5 Ghz band. If you use 5 Ghz networks, its worth the $20 U.S. to buy, so that you can see all of the 5 Ghz networks that are in use.
http://www.techspot.com/downloads/5936-inssider.html
What you want to see on the graphical display is that your network is the highest network shown, which indicates that it has the highest received power of all the received networks. Generally you want somewhere in the neighborhood of 40 to 45 dBmW separation between your network and any other network that is on the same or overlapping channel. So, while your network should be the tallest on the display, everything else should be well below yours. When that power level separation decreases, you end up with interference and possibly with problems maintaining a wifi network. Your only option is to change to a channel with less overlap from the competition. By looking at that display you might conclude that the 2.4 Ghz band is hopeless and that its time to move up to the 5 Ghz band, if you can. If you have devices already running in the 5 Ghz band, change your operating channel to 149 or higher. If you can switch to any of those channels, do so, as the output power for those channels is higher, resulting in better signal levels, signal to noise ratios and data rates.
So, with inSSIDer loaded on your laptop, take a walk around your home. Take a look at the display when you're close to the modem, and where you normally use your laptop. Essentially, you're doing a site survey. It takes about three to four minutes for the display to settle out when you move around and stop in a location somewhere. You should see some differences in the received network power levels as you move around your home, both for your own network, and those of your neighbors. Perhaps one of your neighbors has bought a new modem or router and is competing for the same channels that you are using. If so, inSSIDer will show that.
What you can do is take a screenshot of the inSSIDer display, dump it into something like Microsoft paint and wipe out your MAC address from the text and display area and then save it. Insert it into a post so I can have a look at it if you need help with the interpretation. With the info provided by the inSSIDer display it will be easier to determine what the problem might be.
@Dh5959 that will include any port forwarding / port triggering rules, access rules, wifi network names, passphrases, security settings etc, etc. Basically any setting or parameter that can be specified by the end user will be reset back to the default settings. So, once the factory reset is complete, you will have to go thru all of those settings/parameters and reset them to your preferred settings. If you were running a factory reset to the same firmware version then you could create a backup file using the ADMIN .... BACKUP page .... Backup function to create that file somewhere on your pc. Then when the factory reset is complete, log back into the modem, navigate back to that page and use the Restore function to reset all of the previous parameters. Reboot the modem or router and you're set to go.
If you're modem or router is going from a previous firmware version to a new firmware version, I don't recommend doing this. It might work properly, and then again, it might not. It depends on what changes have been made to the firmware, which could include changes to the internal addressing in the parameters data.
This also includes any occasion where you feel that your modem or router has been hacked. In that case you would run a factory reset and set all of the settings/parameters manually, to prevent the possibility of loading any data from the existing backup file that might have been changed without your knowledge. When that manual parameter reset has been done, you would then delete any previous backup files and create a new backup file.
As long as you have V4.5.8.22 loaded, as indicated on the STATUS page of the modem, you should be good to go after the reset. Problems can arise when the modem is moving from something like 4.4.8.14 to 4.5.8.22, as could be the case with a newly acquired CGN3ACSMR. In that situation, a factory reset should be done after the update to ensure that the modem is completely updated. Moving from .21 to .22 isn't that much of a leap. Fwiw, I usually run a factory reset after every update.
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