@Orchidsfl wrote:
so i checked my closet，i do see everything you mentioned，the rfog onu is not exact the same as the pic but quite similar brand name i guess is “lindsay”
Nice work! Yup... Lindsay Broadband makes RFoG products as well, and they are a Canadian company.
Now, the next step is to connect the coax cable for your desired wall jack to the ONU's R/F out port so that you can connect your modem.
@SteveAdams ok, if you can't get the signal levels to post, I'd suggest sending a message to @CommunityHelps which is the collective address for the moderators. Follow that link to their public page and follow the link to "send this use a private message". That will lead to the message composition page. Fill in the subject and details and hit send. When you're logged into the forum, look for a number overlaying your avatar in the upper right hand corner, to indicate a mention or inbound message. Follow that avatar, which is also a link down to the message inbox.
In the details include your account number so that the moderators can have a look at the file notes and look up the modems's MAC address. You could also include the modem's MAC address which should be found in a details page in the modem's user interface. Ask the mods to have a look at the modem's signal levels to see if there is anything unusual that shows up.
@SteveAdams wrote:
See what you can make out of that. At this point I am ready to toss it all out on the lawn.
Not sure if I am reading this right but it looks like you are getting a ton of uncorrectable codeword errors on your downstream OFDM channel; it should be close to zero. The QAM channel uncorrectables are mostly all zero, which is good.
Signal levels are mostly within spec but also not normal, and the relatively high number of correctable codeword errors on the downstream QAM channels might also be indicative of marginal line conditions. How long has your modem been running for since its last reboot? (The error stats are just counters, so you interpret things differently depending on whether the uptime is 5 minutes, 5 hours, or 5 days... and you also need to see how the stats trend over time.)
You should definitely get the @CommunityHelps team engaged and have this looked at. Until then, don't reset your modem.
@SteveAdams I forgot to mention previously, to send a message to @CommunityHelps you need to be logged into the forum in order to follow that link to their public page and then onto the "Send this user a private message" link.
Just to point out, your signal levels are a little high on the downstream side, which shouldn't be a problem. Its interesting that your modem is running two OFDM channels instead of one. The upstream side is high, much higher that I would expect for a single modem installation. Normally, modems run around 36 to 40 dBmV for upstream power levels. Yours are running around 48 to 50 dBmV, which is unusual, so, there's some issue with the cabling, or, possibly you have a splitter installed which is driving up the upstream power levels.
Do you have Fibre to the Home (FTTH) by any chance, which uses an Optical Network Unit to terminate the fibre connection and possibly a splitter to drop the downstream signal levels? If so, that could explain the high upstream levels.
Can you have a look at the point where the incoming cable is connected to the house cable system? Look specifically for a splitter which might be installed. If there is a splitter, can you take a look at the front of the splitter for the splitter model, and note the port that the modem cable is connected to. It should be marked with a -3.5, -7 or possibly -11 (db) which indicates the signal drop thru the port.
So, with your iphone you get 400 + Mb/s. What do you get with an ethernet connection direct to the modem, using the www.speedtest.net site, specifically the Rogers Toronto, Montreal, Ottawa or other east coast sites, whichever is closer to you?
Ok, so this is looking like a wifi problem, not necessarily a modem problem, given that you're seeing higher data rates with your iphone.
If you use the app, via your iphone for example, my personal opinion is to run a factory reset on the modem. Then log into the modem using your notebook for example and set the modem up from scratch. Do not use the app and don't use the online controls. The purpose of running a factory reset is to allow you to access all of the modem settings directly thru the modem's user interface. When you use the app or online controls, you end up being locked out of some of the modem settings.
Ok, so, another personal opinion, I suspect that your being affected by having Band Steering enabled and Wifi Auto channel setting enabled. Leave both of those disabled.
Set the modem's wifi up with the following settings:
2.4 Ghz wifi settings:
Wireless Mode: 802.11 n
Channel Bandwidth: 20/40 Mhz, although, for test puposes you could set this to 20 Mhz. In a crowded wifi environment, I would set this for 20 Mhz. It will default to 20 Mhz in a crowded environment.
Wireless channel: Select channel 1, 6 or 11
WPS Enabled: OFF
Security Mode: WPA-Personal
Auth Mode: WPA2-PSK
Encrypt Mode: AES only (do not use any form or TKIP/AES combo as TKIP is not secure)
5 Ghz wifi parameters:
Wireless Mode: 802.11 a/n/ac mixed
Channel Bandwidth: 80 Mhz, although, for test puposes you could set this to 40 Mhz
Wireless channel: 149 to 165 Use this higher channel range as it runs higher transmit power levels.
WPS Enabled: OFF
Security Mode: WPA-Personal
Auth Mode: WPA2-PSK
Encrypt Mode: AES only (do not use any form or TKIP/AES combo as TKIP is not secure)
If your notebook runs windows, download Winfi Lite from: https://www.helge-keck.com/
Thats probably the best freebie Windows wifi analysis program available. When its running, select the tool symbol on the second row from the top, right hand side. That will bring up the lower display area. Select "Spectrum" in that lower display to see the graphical interpretation of the text data.
In the case of the 2.4 Ghz channel, determine what might be the best of channels, 1, 6, or 11. There might not be any good choice as a typical neighbourhood could have tens of modems and routers running.
Have a look at the 5 Ghz channels just to see who else is out there, providing competition in the upper channel range (149 to 165). Stay in those channels despite any competition, solely due to the higher output power levels in those channels.
When that is done, reboot the modem.
Connect your notebook and roku to the 5 Ghz network, if possible.
When the modem factory rest is done initially, on your notebook, you should see a Rogers Easyconnect network, or something to that effect, that you can connect with to set up the modem. You can set a temporary password, and then change it when the modem is running an encrypted network after the wifi network names and password (passphrase) has been set.
Ok, thats my take on this. You should consider buying an ethernet to USB 3, or USB 3.1, or Type C adapter to connect to the modem via wifi. The ethernet to Type C would probably be the preferred type, if you have a Type C connector on the notebook. Note that many manufactures cheat and provide a Type C connector that actually runs thru a Type 3 controller, so, you never get the Type C speeds that you expect. Also note that many manufactures only build the notebooks with a single wifi antenna instead of two, so you never get the wifi speeds that you expect to see. So, consumers have to do some homework to determine how many antenna are actually built into the device in order to understand the data rates that they might really see. This is an ongoing problem that is caused by the device manufacturers being cheap.
Using an gigabit to Type C or gigabit to Type 3 connector would give you the possibility of testing the modem speeds via ethernet, but, there's no guarantee that the notebook could handle higher data rates thru a USB connector. We had a notebook once that would only run 200 Mb/s, running thru a USB connector or wifi, it didnt' matter, so, you really have to know if the notebook is capable of higher data rates thru a USB or Type C connector.
Disabling Band Steering will prevent the modem from kicking the device onto a slower 2.4 Ghz network. Disabling Auto Channel selection will prevent the wifi from kicking over to a lower 5 Ghz wifi channel which uses much less power, which in turn can drop the data rate. The 2.4 Ghz channel will remain locked in place instead of channel hopping caused by your neighbours modems and routers.
Hope this helps. All personal opinion of course....
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