New modem Hitron coda 4582 not working

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SteveAdams
I Plan to Stick Around
Posts: 36

Re: New modem Hitron coda 4582 not working

My modem has been re booted about 100 times in the past week.  Can't the techs on the phone see all that data when I complain?  they should know what all of that means,  it's not like I am not being silent about my dis pleasure.  That being said, They came back today and put a filter on my incoming line,  I did two speed tests on my iphone and got 400 plus which is liveable since I am paying for 500.  However,  after a couple of tests,  it's back down to 80ish.  

 

I really don't want to change,  but this is seriously ticking me off.  

Datalink
Resident Expert
Resident Expert
Posts: 7,319

Re: New modem Hitron coda 4582 not working

@SteveAdams I forgot to mention previously, to send a message to @CommunityHelps you need to be logged into the forum in order to follow that link to their public page and then onto the "Send this user a private message" link.

 

Just to point out, your signal levels are a little high on the downstream side, which shouldn't be a problem.  Its interesting that your modem is running two OFDM channels instead of one.  The upstream side is high, much higher that I would expect for a single modem installation.  Normally, modems run around 36 to 40 dBmV for upstream power levels.  Yours are running around 48 to 50 dBmV, which is unusual, so, there's some issue with the cabling, or, possibly you have a splitter installed which is driving up the upstream power levels.  

 

Do you have Fibre to the Home (FTTH) by any chance, which uses an Optical Network Unit to terminate the fibre connection and possibly a splitter to drop the downstream signal levels?  If so, that could explain the high upstream levels.  

 

Can you have a look at the point where the incoming cable is connected to the house cable system?  Look specifically for a splitter which might be installed.  If there is a splitter, can you take a look at the front of the splitter for the splitter model, and note the port that the modem cable is connected to.  It should be marked with a -3.5, -7 or possibly -11 (db) which indicates the signal drop thru the port.



SteveAdams
I Plan to Stick Around
Posts: 36

Re: New modem Hitron coda 4582 not working

No,  there are no splitters coming in anymore.  We removed all of them when I started having issues.  

SteveAdams
I Plan to Stick Around
Posts: 36

Re: New modem Hitron coda 4582 not working

Since my home is large,  I have 3 pods in here too,  I tried the remove all of them out of line and tested again with no speed increase.  

Datalink
Resident Expert
Resident Expert
Posts: 7,319

Re: New modem Hitron coda 4582 not working

So, with your iphone you get 400 + Mb/s.  What do you get with an ethernet connection direct to the modem, using the www.speedtest.net site, specifically the Rogers Toronto, Montreal, Ottawa or other east coast sites, whichever is closer to you?



SteveAdams
I Plan to Stick Around
Posts: 36

Re: New modem Hitron coda 4582 not working

I got two results of 400 plus when the tech put the filter back on the incoming line.  I will test again now while i am typing this and see what I get. 

 

just got 474 on my iphone meanwhile in the exact same spot,  my notebook gets 50mpbs.  My roku also has signal issues as well right next to the modem as you can see the image go from nice high def to low quality pixelated images.  

 

the entire system is not good.  

Datalink
Resident Expert
Resident Expert
Posts: 7,319

Re: New modem Hitron coda 4582 not working

Notebook and Roku are connected via ethernet, or wifi?



SteveAdams
I Plan to Stick Around
Posts: 36

Re: New modem Hitron coda 4582 not working

Oh,  and the tech that was in monday was the last person to plug in and he got 104 and 4.  

SteveAdams
I Plan to Stick Around
Posts: 36

Re: New modem Hitron coda 4582 not working

everything is wifi.  My notebook does not have ethernet connection.

Datalink
Resident Expert
Resident Expert
Posts: 7,319

Re: New modem Hitron coda 4582 not working

Ok, so this is looking like a wifi problem, not necessarily a modem problem, given that you're seeing higher data rates with your iphone.  

 

If you use the app, via your iphone for example, my personal opinion is to run a factory reset on the modem.  Then log into the modem using your notebook for example and set the modem up from scratch.  Do not use the app and don't use the online controls.  The purpose of running a factory reset is to allow you to access all of the modem settings directly thru the modem's user interface.  When you use the app or online controls, you end up being locked out of some of the modem settings.  

 

Ok, so, another personal opinion, I suspect that your being affected by having Band Steering enabled and Wifi Auto channel setting enabled.  Leave both of those disabled.  

 

Set the modem's wifi up with the following settings:  

 

2.4 Ghz wifi settings:

 

Wireless Mode: 802.11 n 
Channel Bandwidth: 20/40 Mhz, although, for test puposes you could set this to 20 Mhz. In a crowded wifi environment, I would set this for 20 Mhz.  It will default to 20 Mhz in a crowded environment.
Wireless channel: Select channel 1, 6 or 11
WPS Enabled: OFF
Security Mode: WPA-Personal
Auth Mode: WPA2-PSK
Encrypt Mode: AES only  (do not use any form or TKIP/AES combo as TKIP is not secure)

 

5 Ghz wifi parameters:

 

Wireless Mode: 802.11 a/n/ac mixed
Channel Bandwidth: 80 Mhz, although, for test puposes you could set this to 40 Mhz
Wireless channel: 149 to 165     Use this higher channel range as it runs higher transmit power levels.
WPS Enabled: OFF
Security Mode: WPA-Personal
Auth Mode: WPA2-PSK
Encrypt Mode: AES only      (do not use any form or TKIP/AES combo as TKIP is not secure)

 

If your notebook runs windows, download Winfi Lite from:  https://www.helge-keck.com/

 

Thats probably the best freebie Windows wifi analysis program available.  When its running, select the tool symbol on the second row from the top, right hand side.  That will bring up the lower display area.  Select "Spectrum" in that lower display to see the graphical interpretation of the text data.  

 

In the case of the 2.4 Ghz channel, determine what might be the best of channels, 1, 6, or 11.  There might not be any good choice as a typical neighbourhood could have tens of modems and routers running. 

 

Have a look at the 5 Ghz channels just to see who else is out there, providing competition in the upper channel range (149 to 165).   Stay in those channels despite any competition, solely due to the higher output power levels in those channels. 

 

When that is done, reboot the modem. 

 

Connect your notebook and roku to the 5 Ghz network, if possible.  

 

When the modem factory rest is done initially, on your notebook, you should see a Rogers Easyconnect network, or something to that effect, that you can connect with to set up the modem.  You can set a temporary password, and then change it when the modem is running an encrypted network after the wifi network names and password (passphrase) has been set.  

 

Ok, thats my take on this.  You should consider buying an ethernet to USB 3, or USB 3.1, or Type C adapter to connect to the modem via wifi.  The ethernet to Type C would probably be the preferred type, if you have a Type C connector on the notebook.  Note that many manufactures cheat and provide a Type C connector that actually runs thru a Type 3 controller, so, you never get the Type C speeds that you expect.  Also note that many manufactures only build the notebooks with a single wifi antenna instead of two, so you never get the wifi speeds that you expect to see.  So, consumers have to do some homework to determine how many antenna are actually built into the device in order to understand the data rates that they might really see.  This is an ongoing problem that is caused by the device manufacturers being cheap.  

 

Using an gigabit to Type C or gigabit to Type 3 connector would give you the possibility of testing the modem speeds via ethernet, but, there's no guarantee that the notebook could handle higher data rates thru a USB connector.  We had a notebook once that would only run 200 Mb/s, running thru a USB connector or wifi, it didnt' matter, so, you really have to know if the notebook is capable of higher data rates thru a USB or Type C connector. 

 

Disabling Band Steering will prevent the modem from kicking the device onto a slower 2.4 Ghz network.  Disabling Auto Channel selection will prevent the wifi from kicking over to a lower 5 Ghz wifi channel which uses much less power, which in turn can drop the data rate.  The 2.4 Ghz channel will remain locked in place instead of channel hopping caused by your neighbours modems and routers.  

 

Hope this helps.  All personal opinion of course....