@Luna-and-Kyla you might have to call tech support to ask the Customer Service Rep to generate a work order for you. This is a recent twist where a work order is required to swap modems at the closest Rogers Store. Additionally, some stores appear to require a work order and some don't. I don't know what separates one from the other. What you could do is call the local store to determine if they have your modem model in stock.
You probably have a black Hitron CGN3xxx or which Hitron CODA-4582 modem. There is a product sticker at the back of the modem which will give the exact modem model. Can you let us know what model you have?
If you have the new Ignite TV service, then you would have one of the new Arris or Technicolor XB6 modems.
My guess is that you don't have a modem problem, as the modems are pretty reliable. Usually problems arise due to the deterioration of the external cable and connectors. To determine that, if and when the modem is out of service, call tech support and ask the Customer Service Rep to run a signal check to see what turns up. Advise the CSR that you have to reboot the modem to bring it back into service. That's usually an indication of cable signal problems. The reboot will temporarily resolve the issue, but it won't solve the underlying problem. Don't reboot the modem prior to calling tech support if in fact it's dropped out of service. Leave it as is for the time being until you're done with tech support. The best time to call is when the problem is underway, so that the CSR can check for modem issues and local neighbourhood issues.
If you happen to have one of the Hitron modems, you can also log into the modem, navigate to the STATUS .... DOCSIS WAN tab and copy the Downstream Overview, all the way down to the bottom of the Uptream Overview in the case of the CGN3xxx modem, or down to the bottom of the OFDM/OFDMA section for the CODA-4582 modem. Highlight or select that entire table, right click, select Copy. Then open a new post and right click, select Paste to paste in that table. It will paste in just like any other document section.
That table should shed some light on the problems that your having.
There is always the change that the modem is at fault, but, given the serviceability stats for the modems, my bet is on the cable and its connectors.
I didnt think that Start ran/used any of their own infrastructure.. and just used rogers, etc... but I could be wrong.
If your neighbor is not having the same issues.. i would think it wouldnt be something say local node, street cabling, etc related. So may be more isolated to your home.
If your able to post to us your signal levels from the modem.. both in a good time, and a bad time, we can take a look and see if there is anything showing up there which could be a trigger for the issues.
Beyond that.. the speed tests, etc your doing/when your having issues.. is it on wireless or wired?
Just wondering an interference issue.
@Gdkitty wrote:
I didnt think that Start ran/used any of their own infrastructure.. and just used rogers, etc... but I could be wrong.
Start has been deploying their own fibre network for a few years now. They're using GPON for FTTH and offering direct links for their business customers. As far as I know, their service area is still constrained to certain parts of London.
IF your able to do a wired test.. I would try that, during those bad times.
It might help pick up if this is an interference issue, if its fine that way.
Its possible that there might be wireless interference.
This is a growing problem where users live on wifi. Personal opinion, anyone who is in that category absolutely has to have some method of connecting directly to the modem (not wifi), so that you can isolate the problem to the modem, or to the wifi environment and network. If you don't have an ethernet capable device, then perhaps buying a USB 3 or Type C to gigabit ethernet adapter to connect to a laptop to the modem or router would do the job.
If you pinged the router using wifi, that might show indications of packet loss, which might be the result or interfering networks or other household devices, just depends on which network you were using, 2.4 or 5 Ghz.
The signal, while a little high, is still within spec. I wouldnt think that its specifically the problem.
Again, dont necessarily think its an issue with/at the router side. But maybe something inbetween.
This is where a wireless survey needed to see if there is something getting in the way.
@shadowt1tan have a look at the following post, specifically the wifi settings and applications to load on to a laptop or wifi desktop to check your wifi environment:
https://communityforums.rogers.com/t5/Internet/slow-wifi/m-p/429489#M54216
A new program out now is Winfi Lite, which is available from the Microsoft store as a freebie download. The home page is:
http://www.helge-keck.com/index.html
Thats fairly new and looks promising. If you download and install that program, start the program, then in the second data and icon row from the top, select the "i" icon for info. Thats near the right hand side. That will bring up a lower data panel. When that panel comes up, select "Spectrum" to see the graphical display. At the top of the program is a 2.4 Ghz, 5 Ghz, or All selection to show both the text and graphical data. The scale on the graph is a negative scale, with 0 at the top and descending from there. What you want to see is that you're on your own for the channel that you're using or that any other users are in the vicinity of 40 dBmW or greater, below your network received power level. The less the separation, the greater probability that you either end up sharing the channel in question, or that your channel is subjected to interference from neighbouring channels.
With one of those programs loaded on a laptop, walk around your home and stop in place at selected locations. Stop for at least three minutes to allow the program to catch up with any movement from any other location. For 2.4 Ghz channels you probably won't see much difference, unless you have a very large home. For 5 Ghz networks, I would expect you to see differences in observed networks running nearby and in the received power levels for your network and the neighbours network. Its really a question of how many other networks might be running nearby and whether any of them are located one or two channels away, interfering with your network due to the overlap.
Just so that I have this correct, you and your neighbour have the same router. When his router is located in your home, it runs correctly. What happens to your router when its in his home? Does it run correctly? Don't discount the possibility of a wifi transmitter failure in your router. I've seen comments to that affect concerning Asus routers. I've never had any issue with my Asus routers and hopefully will never have any issues.
Any of those programs will also show your network, so it would be fairly easy to determine if in fact the router's wifi transmitter has stopped transmitting. If the wifi is still transmitting and you have no internet connection, thats a different matter which points to a cabling issue of some type or possibly a router or modem port issue.
Out of curiosity, what router are you running?
@shadowt1tan Does the wireless driver on your computer provide detailed live stats about your wireless connection? If it does, check the RSSI; if it's fluctuating across a very wide range, say -30 to -65 dBm, that's not good and you need to find out why. You might be seeing local interference in your house that's not present in your neighbour's house. If you are also able view details about neighbouring Wi-Fi networks, make sure that you and your neighbours are not operating on the same channels. Also make sure that you don't have any other wireless transmitters (cordless phones, baby monitors, etc.) in the vicinity of your router either.
I see that you checked the signal levels on your modem. What about the logs? Is the modem logging any errors about its connection to the Rogers network?
From your posts, I didn't see any specifics about your wireless configuration. One thing that I would suggest is to try configuring your 5 GHz Wi-Fi to a channel in the 36-48 range. Yes, that will drop the transmit power... but the same goes for other devices using those frequencies, so they also cause less interference. Also, don't perform a speed test with a device located located right next to your Wi-Fi router; back away 3m/10ft.
You still haven't said which types of computer/mobile devices you are using. That might matter. I had a really weird issue where a Wi-Fi router with a Marvell chipset did not mix well with my Apple devices, especially my MacBook Pro. I would suddenly and randomly lose 5GHz connectivity and the only way to "fix" the problem was to power-cycle the router. I replaced the router with one from another vendor... same configuration and Wi-Fi channel settings but with an Atheros chipset... and the problems went away.
For your wireless survey, if you have Apple devices, Apple provides Wi-Fi scanners for both macOS and IOS. On iOS, install Apple's "AirPort Utility" from the App store and enable the Wi-Fi Scanner in Settings. On macOS, launch "Wireless Diagnostics" and select Scan from the Window menu on the macOS menu bar. Scan also works best if you Option-click on the Wi-Fi icon on the menu bar and Disconnect from your wireless network.
@shadowt1tan Thanks. On your MacBook Pro, Option-click on your Wi-Fi icon on the macOS menu bar. That will display the live stats for your connection as well as the maximum attainable transmit rate. You can also hover on other Wi-Fi network names to get details about those networks. You won't see any neighbouring Wi-Fi networks with hidden SSIDs but those will show up with the Scan tool in Wireless Diagnostics. (FYI, you can also launch Wireless Diagnostics by searching for it with Spotlight.)
You can also get stats about neighbouring networks by clicking on " / About This Mac" , then click "System Report..." and go to Network / Wi-Fi.
It's too bad that you are unable to perform a speed test with a wired Ethernet connection.
@shadowt1tan wrote:
Second Asus Router set up as a repeater
I didn't see any mention about this before. This may or may not be part of the problem... and I don't know much about the ASUS hardware (or AiMesh) so I can't really say anything more.
@shadowt1tan are you running an RT-AC68U as the main router? And what model is the repeater?
Are you running stock Asuswrt on both or Merlin's Asuswrt on both?
No matter which firmware you're running, whats the firmware version that is loaded on both routers?
Just to be sure here, are you running the second router in Repeater mode, Access Point mode or as an AiMesh node? I know there have been complaints regarding the performance and stability of AiMesh and a number of users have returned to a traditional main router with an Access Point router located elsewhere in the home.
If you've both of those routers for a while now, I wouldn't suspect a hardware issue at this point. So, I'm wondering about the wifi environment in your home. Are you running a wifi data forwarding and back channel from the second router or using an ethernet network?
If you walk around the home with a laptop and wifi monitor program running, watch the MAC address for your network. At some point you should see that MAC address flip from one router to the other when the laptop's wifi adapter locks onto the nearest router, or, router with the best network signal at that point in the home. I'm assuming that you're using the same SSID on both routers.
Are you running into problems with the 2.4 Ghz network, 5 Ghz network or both?
If you're running Merlin's Asuswrt, in the Wireless tab, on the right hand side is the Wi-Fi Radar function, which is a built in wifi scanner. Go into the Settings selection and enable the data collection. Then you can go the the Site Survey function at the top of the page to show the graphical results of who else is running nearby networks. Those results will probably show more networks as the router uses three antenna for both the 2.4 and 5 Ghz networks, so it will be more sensitive than a normal laptop, in terms of signal reception. When you're done with that, disable the data collection to disable the function, unless of course you want to have a look at the data at a later time.
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