@earl1I have a Dlink 1620 in my upstairs bedroom, that provides good coverage for the upstairs, and the corners of the main floor. I still get poor signal in one corner of my main floor, just because of the structural design of the house. Unfortunately it is where my couch is.
That device was 59.99 on sale at Best Buy when I got it, and you can always return it (probably) if you find it doesn't do the trick for you.
Mine fortunately is plugged into a cat 5-e cable so I don't lose any throughput speed which you will loose some if you go with the extender doing the load of connecting to the Hitron, and providing IP address and signal to your devices on DHCP. I set the device to fixed IP - it is pretty straight forward to use and the support is great if you contact them.
Best solution in my home is a router, which also has the issue of dead spots, the Hitron is useless for anything but maybe 1/3 of my house. The basement installs are probably the worst place you can have them, but that usually where you cable from Rogers comes - back from the days when they used modems only, you ran cable and a router to somewhere.
The other option, but expensive and probably the best is one of the new Mesh systems from Google and most other companies have them.
Get yourself an app on your phone like WIFI analyzer or anything like that to figure out your best placement. That app will map signals around your home as well as allow you to check strength.
By the way, if you have roaming set on the adapter on a Windows device, it will switch to the best signal. On your phone or tablet, it won't switch unless you switch it.
There are two ways you can set the name of the device - you can name it the same as your hitron and password, and when you need to grab the better signal, turn your wifi off, then turn it back on.
I have mine named two different names, and I just switch manually.
There are apps you can put on your phone to switch from one to the other as you move around, but there is a lag in the switch, and if you are doing a data download or something like that, you will get cut off.
Play with it and figure out what works best - I can't say that it is a perfect solution, but it works for me. I also moved my Hitron, by pulling the coax from its current location (they gave me about 75 feet extra cable and it is in an unfinished area of my basement, and have moved it around looking for a better placement. Corner with concrete on both sides, steel beams, furnace electrical, and all 240 runs to stove, air conditioner, dryer all close by is not a great place.
My best of luck in finding a solutions.
Your case is not unique and like my home does not fit into the new adds on TV and you listen to them in your phone calls to Rogers that are suggestive of connected in your whole home.
Others want to pitch in.
BS has sort of explained the two mindsets on this.
Going with separate access points, which are wired back, will often give you the BEST performance, as you should be getting full throughput to that point, then able to connect to it.
The one downside here, as he mentioned, comes down to the naming of the wifi networks.
Yes, you can name them the same.. but the problem is that they dont always handshake/pass off very cleanly to each other.. you could stay connected to one until its almost completely unusable, before switching over to the other.
Changing it to separate names.. would require manually changing from one to another.
The other option then comes down to repeaters. Either a standard one, a mesh network one, can have inherent issues as well.
Its all about signal. So many people will put the repeater near where they want it the most.. and show that they are connected to it with FULL bars. But thats only that they are full signal to the repeater. But if the the repeater is only getting a signal good enough for say 1/2 the speed.. thats all they are going to get off the repeater.
The repeater needs to be placed in a location where it has a decent enough signal from the SOURCE.
As for what type of repeaters? I have used a few, and all seems to be as good/bad as another.. still only as good as the source, etc.
Only biggest thing to look at would be signal capabilities compared to what your connecting to, etc.
The coda modem is dual band AC. If you got a single band N repeater.. you wouldnt get AC signal to where the repeater reaches, and only on the 2.4
Thats something else to consider as well. that your 5g network doesnt reach as far. So that can then change the placement of where a repeater would go.
I have been playing around with some older gear and porting them over to dd-wrt and experiment with the repeater settings. It is still a lot of work maintaining this, I have an unfinished basement / crawlspace and ran 1Gb to the far corner to get better signal outside. I barely get 5Mb connection there today. I have followed the instructions very closely but alas it will not work consistently. So I was now looking at AmpliFi or solutions like that. The only problem is of course that these connect wirelessly and with the signal being poor as it is I would most likely have to put the router away from the modem/router and put it in bridge mode, which in return gives poor throughput. It is a no win situation but I am trying to enjoy my deck more this year so I am exploring.
I am trying to extend wifi to the other side of the house using a Hawking HAWBN1. It works when plugged in to the CODA modem using a short cable. When I try to use it on the other side of the house, connected through a D-Link DSS-5 Fast Ethernet Switch (since existing cables are not long enough) it connects but cannot access the Internet. Is it the switch? Could it be the cables?
I was going to suggest that, but let you troubleshoot first. I used one of the D-Link extenders, connected via a cat- 5e cable that went in there a decade ago, going to where my router used to sit. It worked great. I recently finally moved my gateway out of the basement where the wiring was, by dragging the cable over and fishing it up to my living room, which is dead centre to the whole house, and no walls in between, so I actually don't need the extender anymore.
Rogers talks about WIFI all over the home - if they actually had rewired their connections of 10 years ago plus and put them in the most optimum positions, we would have far less problems.
This is why you pay 150.00 for a Bell install, they are putting new wiring in and optimizing for location and use all over the house, then have integrated capability for one of the top Mesh systems out there.
Glad it worked out for you.
roblund Can you tell me how you set-up the extender to connect to the modem? I have a D-Link DAP-1530 extender and the instructions say to press the WPS button on the modem and the D-Link so they connect. Cannot find a WPS button on CODA-4582.
@gizman the 4582s WPS button is the bottom button on the front of the modem. From the Hitron CODA-4x8x Users guide comes the following:
Press this button to begin the WiFi Protected Setup (WPS) Push-Button Configuration (PBC) procedure. Press the PBC button on your wireless clients in the coverage area within two minutes to enable them to join the wireless network.
The WPS LED displays WiFi Protected Setup connection status as follows:
1. Bi-color, blinking: the WPS connection is processing.
2. Green, steady: the WPS connection has been successful.
3. Red, steady: the WPS connection has failed, or an error has occurred.
4. Off: WPS is not active.
See WPS on page 86 for more information
Here's the link to a pdf user manual:
I have the Hitron Coda 4582 modem with gigabit speed package. I just purchased four of these extenders that i found on ebay. Does anyone here have any experience with them? Does anyone, especially the OPs, know how well they will work with the Hitron Coda router?
Any information is greatly appreciated.
@traghipp, I don't have any experience with these, but, looking at the data sheet, it would appear that you can connect to these extenders thru any of three methods:
Here's a link to a quick start guide:
The one word of caution here is that if you want to run these via coax and use MoCA, you will need a MoCA filter installed on your main cable that comes in from the street or utility pole, and you will need a MoCA 2.0 splitter to replace your existing splitter. That will ensure that the port to port frequency response will allow communications between the modem and extenders.
So, this will look like:
Main cable ----> Moca Point of Entry Filter ----> MoCA 2.0 Splitter Port 1 ----> house RG-6 ----> Modem
MoCA 2.0 Splitter Port 2 ----> Extender
MoCA 2.0 Splitter Port 3 ----> Extender
MoCA 2.0 Splitter Port 4 ----> Extender
MoCA 2.0 Splitter Port 5 ----> Extender
The MoCA Point of Entry Filter looks like this:
That filter will ensure that your MoCA network stays inside your home and that the MoCA signals don't interfere with anyone else in the neighbourhood. Same on the reverse side, it will protect your MoCA network from any outside MoCA networks.
The MoCA splitters are manufactured by Holland Electronics and other manufacturers:
These are MoCA 2.0 splitters which will match the CODA-4582's and extender's MoCA 2.0 frequency range.
No such thing as a silly question when it comes to this kind of stuff 🙂 Yes, you will have to turn on the modems's MoCA function if you want internet access thru any of the extenders. You should also ensure that you run the MoCA network with encryption. There is a passphrase of some type that you usually can enter when the network is set up. Don't remember if that's all numerals, or if its mixed character, alphabetical and numerals.
Now, having said that you have to enable the MoCA function, say for the sake of the argument you had structured wiring installed in your home, which usually consists of two RG-6 cables for satellite or cable tv, one Cat5e for ethernet and one Cat-3 (maybe Cat-5e) for telephones. You could in theory use one RG-6 cable set for satellite or cable tv/internet puposes, and use the second set of RG-6 cables for an internal network. In that case the internal network never connects to the outside world and you wouldn't enable the modem's MoCA function. You wouldn't need the MoCA POE filter either as the two systems don't cross over. You would still need the MoCA splitter as you're better off running the higher MoCA frequency bands which also provide a greater bandwidth and therefore greater data rate. Those RG-6 cables in the structured wiring bundle usually come with one having a black external cover and one with a white external cover, so, its easy to set up two distinct cable systems within the home.
One thing to note, the CODA-4582 is locked to the Delta - High band for MoCA operations. If you look at page 6 and 7 of the following MoCA 2.0 spec, you can see the various frequency bands. The 4582 uses the D-High band for MoCA ops due to the possible use of the Whole Home PVR feature with the Nextbox receivers which uses the D-Low band. That results in a somewhat limited user D-High bandwidth and forces the end user to recognize the frequency response issue which arises with standard splitters, hence, the requirement for a MoCA 2.0 qualified splitter to run that D-High band. Without that frequency response, you would see low data rates thru the system. If you were running the extenders on an internal network only, then you wouldn't have to worry about the Whole Home Pvr and you could then set the extenders to use the entire D band if that selection was available in the extender's frequency selection menu.
So, hopefully this is making some sense. Two things to be concerned about are the encryption settings for the MoCA network and the frequency range that can be used, which will depend on the physical configuration of the cable network and the spitter. If you only had one set of RG-6 cables in the home, you could still run an internal network, just depends on what cables are required for the modem and nextbox's and which cables might be free for use in an internal cable network.
@traghipp it depends on what you have installed. As far as I know, Antronix only makes two amplifiers that are MoCA 2.0 qualified with a built in MoCA filter. Those are the MVRAM502B and MVRAM902B amplifiers, both of which support port to port frequencies up to the 1675 Mhz limit for MoCA 2.0. The CODA-4582 is MoCA 2.0 qualifed, so those amps would match the frequency ranges of the 4582 MoCA transmit and receive. Anything else on their web site doesn't mention any support for MoCA 2.0 from what I've seen.
So, the question is, do you have either one of those amps or do you have a MoCA filter followed by a splitter. If you do have one of those amps, then you're set to go. Note that the other amps that are MoCA qualified only support MoCA 1.0 From the MoCA specs, that allows for a Single or Bonded-Pair Channel. The MoCa 2.0 spec allows for a D-Low band, transition band, and then a D-High band which supports bonded channels. So, looking at the specs, if you have one of the other Antronix amps which have a yellow face on them and which indicate MoCA qualified, those are MoCA 1.0 amps which should support a single D-High channel. It should work, but you won't get the maximum performance out of the network.
If you have the MoCA filter followed by a splitter, then the filter is fine and you would have to replace the splitter. That is predicated on the absolute lack of information on the Antronix website. Perhaps there is a secret portion of the spec that isn't shown, but, I doubt it. The MoCa splitter section of the site has been missing in action for a good many months, so, its useless. As a result, the Holland Electronics splitters are the next best bet.
One other item to note, have a look at the settings that are available for the extenders. There should be a MoCA frequency band selection in the user settings. At the very least it should show the Delta Band. Ideally it would show the sub-bands, D-Low and D-High. If those were available, you should select D-High. If all there is the Delta Band, it might be an idea to contact Hitron to see if there is a firmware update available which would enable the D-High band and gain the most performance available out of the MoCA network.
@Datalink, thanks for your continued assistance!
I have the Antronix MVRA901B installed and as you’ve already mentioned, there’s no mention on their website about it being MOCA 2.0 so I’m going to go ahead and get one of the other splitters you’ve recommended. The amp I’m currently using is also used for voip which I have through Rogers home phone. Can you explain how I should set up everything once I obtain the MOCA 2.0 splitter noting I have to keep the voip/home phone? Thank you