One of the devices can't connect to the Internet via wifi or Ethernet

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Resident Expert
Resident Expert
Posts: 6,345

Re: One of the devices can't connect to the Internet via wifi or Ethernet

@LR6 it is possible for a LAN card/port or wifi adapter to fail over the course of time.  We have seen that happen with other users in the forum.  In those cases, the failure caused a modem network failure, ie:  whatever network the failed adapter was connected to would fail.  For whatever reason, the adapter caused the modem's network controller, for that network, to become unresponsive.  Replace the adapter and the problem disappeared.  So, yes, it can happen. 


1.  Is the particular pc located at the furthest distance from the modem, compared to your other devices? 

2.  Is that pc connected via 2.4 or 5 Ghz wifi?  

3.  Do you happen to have a Cat 5e or Cat 6 cable that is long enough to reach that pc so that you can experiment with an ethernet connection, looking for the same type of failure?

I've Been Here Awhile
Posts: 2

Re: One of the devices can't connect to the Internet via wifi or Ethernet

Thanks for the response.  To answer your questions:

1) The PC is within 8 feet of the modem.  It is the closest device to the modem

2) It is connected at 2.4 Ghz wifi

3) When I connect the PC via a Cat cable, the same thing happens.


The PC is several years old and it is the original LAN/Wifi card so my guess is that the card is failing.  I brought the PC to BestBuy and they said the card is working fine.  I will probably just ask them to replace the card.


Thanks again

Resident Expert
Resident Expert
Posts: 6,345

Re: One of the devices can't connect to the Internet via wifi or Ethernet

@LR6, before you replace the card, have a look at the drivers for the card.  If the pc is several years old, as you indicated, there's probably a good chance that the driver is much newer than the card and that the current driver might be causing an issue.  I have that problem with this particular pc and its video card.  The last correct driver from AMD works.  If the driver manages to update for some strange reason (it shouldn't), I have to roll back the driver or reload the current driver which I keep on hand.  I wonder if thats the case with your network card?


So, you might have to do some research on the network card manufacturers site to determine the last published driver and see what you have loaded.  There is a good chance the current loaded driver is a generic Microsoft driver instead of the manufactures drivers. 


If you do decide to replace the card, I'd look for a wifi card that runs 5 Ghz so that you can shift that pc up into the 5 Ghz band.  There are a couple of ways to do this, one is to install a wifi dongle, and the other is to install a pci card.   One major problem with the dongle is that its buried behind the pc, which is usually  metal case.  Not very conducive to good wifi reception.  The other approach is to install a pci card with an antenna set that can sit above the pc, possibly on a desk.   If you have a white CODA-4582 modem, it has four 5 Ghz antenna, which would allow you to run a PCE-AC88.  The black Hitron modems have three 5Ghz antenna, where you could run a PCE-AC68.   In both cases, the numbers of modem antenna would match up with the pc's number of antenna.  Essentially one data stream per antenna, although its possible to see multi-path streams with the right home environment.  So, whatever the budget allows, I'd recommend going with a wifi adapter that allows 802.11ac, in order to maximize the data transfer rates.


The other item to look at is the wifi environment.  2.4 Ghz wifi is tough to work in these days if you live in a typical neighbourhood.  Its worth looking at that wifi environment with a wifi scanner to see if any of your close neighbours have set up a 2.4 wifi network, on your operating wifi channel that is causing your pc to drop out.  Just to note, the more antenna that a pc or laptop has, the better performance it will have.  Single antenna systems will have the worst performance in noisier environments.  So, what you can to is load the same wifi scanner on the pc and laptop to see what differences there are between the two.  Laptops typically have two antenna these days, although its still possible to find laptops with one antenna due to cheap manufacturers. 


Load one of the following on a pc or laptop.  The inSSIDer lite is fairly new and requires you to sign up for a freebie account.  The scanner from Lizard systems is free for home use, just have to send for a freebie licence.  I haven't seen the inSSIDer lite as I run a licenced version of inSSIDer.  The two of them should be fairly close.   The Lizard systems scanner displays a number of data items for wifi network, far more than the inSSIDer equivalent.  


inSSIDer download:


Lizard Systems wifi scanner download:


Freebie licence link is on the following page.  follow the "Get Licence" link for the Wifi Scanner:


When you have one of those loaded, take a look at your wifi environment and see whom you're competing with for a clear 2.4 Ghz channel.  I suspect that you might see several networks on the same channel.  These days, with mesh network becoming popular, some of which use fixed channel 2.4 Ghz networks for backhauling data from the nodes to the main router, the wifi environment is becoming more crowded, probably to the point of causing issues for neighbours wifi networks.  You never know, that might be the case here.  Switching channels might work and could save you some money. 





I've Been Here Awhile
Posts: 2

Re: One of the devices can't connect to the Internet via wifi or Ethernet

I wonder if you can help.  My daughter recently changed to Rogers Ignite from a previous Rogers service. She has an indoor security camera called Ezviz mini o.  Now she can not connect it to the new service.  She has spoken to Rogers and tried to connect it to the 2.4Ghz network but it wont connect.  Ezviz support says something like you need a different "mode"  (I suppose like wireless G or N or something, maybe).  I am not in town or would try to bird-dog it myself, but maybe we are missing something simple.  Help!  Rod

Posts: 1,614

Re: One of the devices can't connect to the Internet via wifi or Ethernet

Hello, @rodralph.


Welcome to the Rogers Community Forums! 🙂


I appreciate your participation in the Community and thank you for your post.


I have checked the specs of your security camera; it seems it only supports 20 MHz channel bandwidth on a 2.4 GHz network. Below are the specs:


Standard - IEEE802.11b, 802.11g, 802.11n

Frequency Range - 2.4 GHz ~ 2.4835 GHz

Channel Bandwidth -  Supports 20MHz

Security - 64/128-bit WEP, WPA/WPA2, WPA-PSK/WPA2-PSK

Transmission Rate - 11b: 11Mbps, 11g: 54Mbps, 11n: 150Mbpss


You can check to see if only 20 MHz channel bandwidth selected on your modem by navigating to Wireless/Advanced/2.4G/Channel Bandwidth. 


Let us know if you need any further assistance.




I've Been Here Awhile
Posts: 2

Re: One of the devices can't connect to the Internet via wifi or Ethernet

Thanks very much. I will pass this on.  Will selecting 20 bandwidth change things for other equipment on her network?

Resident Expert
Resident Expert
Posts: 6,345

Re: One of the devices can't connect to the Internet via wifi or Ethernet

@rodralph in theory, selecting 20 Mhz instead of 40 Mhz for the channel bandwidth could cut the throughput in half.  However, realistically, in a normal residential area, its difficult if not impossible to run 40 Mhz wide channels in the 2.4 Mhz band.  Even if you selected 40 Mhz as the bandwidth, based on the Clear Channel Check which is requested by the transmitting device and carried out by the receiving device, the transmitter would or should default down to 20 Mhz if the extended channels required to run a 40 Mhz wide channel were already occupied. 


In the Wireless .... Basic Settings, the 2.4 Ghz settings should be set as follows:


Wireless Mode:  802.11 b/g/n mixed

Channel Bandwidth:  20/40 Mhz 


Save the changes in the event that they have actually changed.


Beyond those settings this becomes a question of range from the router.  I'd recommend relocating a problem device close the modem for test purposes, ensuring that the modem will communicate with the device, and then relocate the device to its intended location in the home.  If it doesn't work in that location, then its a question of signal power and signal to noise ratio of the modem's wifi network.  That can be determined by loading inSSIDer lite, and/or Lizard Systems wifi scanner, as indicated in the following thread:


With inSSIDer Lite or the Lizard Systems wifi scanner loaded on a laptop, its fairly easy to look at the wifi network's signal level and signal to noise ratio and compare that with the other networks that might be interfering with your own network.  At that point its a matter of coming to some conclusion as to whether or not the device will work at its intended location. 

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