1. Are you running the modem in Gateway or Bridge mode?
2. Are you running the router in router mode or access point mode?
3. Can you look at the back of the modem, specifically at the connected port LED. that router has Gigabit WAN and LAN PORT, so, the LED at the back of the modem should be a flashing amber LED, signifying that the modem is connected to the router at 1 Gb/s. If the port LED is flashing green, that indicates that the connect rate is 10/100 Mb/s.
The LED should be flashing amber in colour. If it is green instead, that indicates that:
1. The ethernet cable is not connected properly at either or both end.
2. That the ethernet cable has been damaged in some manner and no longer supports 1 Gb/s, and as a result the modem and router ports auto-negotiate to a data rate that they can agree on.
The other thought that goes with the first question above is that if you have the modem in Gateway mode, and the router in router mode, then you would have a double NAT situation where both the modem and router take the incoming IP address and split it into sub-addresses for the connected devices. This can lead to all sorts of problems. So, the correct configuration should be:
a. The modem in Gateway mode, the router connected in Access mode. This configuration makes the modem the actual controller of the network. The router merely acts as a wired and wifi access point.
b. The modem in Bridge mode, the router in full router mode. This is the typical configuration when you use a router behind a modem.
So, can you let us know what configuration you have, and what colour the modem's port LED is?
For the CGNM-3552 itself, you should request the updated firmware in order to avoid dead LAN ports if you happen to be connected to a Casa Systems CMTS. Have a look at message # 471 (top post) on the following page for instructions on requesting the trial version, 188.8.131.52.
When you are sending the private message as indicated in that post, also log into your modem and copy the HFC MAC address and modem Serial number and paste that into the message. The HFC MAC Address and modem Serial Number can be found on the STATUS page that is displayed when you log into the modem. The Cable Modem MAC Address and S/N can also be found on the back of the modem.
The port LED at the back of the modem was flashing green.
The cable was replaced and now the port is flashing amber. We are now getting the expected speed results on speedtest.
Thanks so much for the help.
@JBRAN, nice to see that its working at it should be. Please unsure that you request the update for the CGNM-3552 to avoid any problems with dead LAN ports. If that does happen, until the update occurs, simply pull the power on the modem and then plug it back in to force a modem restart. That problem is resolved with the update, along with problems experienced when connecting to a Chromecast device.
We have the Ignite 100u internet package. Our house is 3300sqft and the modem is on one end of the first floor. It has a Apple TV plugged in with ethernet cable. Everything else (laptops, cellphones) run on wireless.
The computer/office room is on the 2nd floor on the opposite end of the house. I called Rogers support and they said the Rogers Modem/Router is not strong enough for coverage of a large home, and I have to spend $250-$300 to get a 'good stronger' router from Best Buy etc.
I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for improving wifi coverage with Rogers? We're thinking of switching to Bell Fibre if we can't get good coverage on all our devices.
Thanks in advance!
Bell Fibre wont improve WiFi signal, the best thing is to move the Router to the middle of the house on the middle floor. I have a 3 story house, around 2500 square feet. I originally had the modem upstairs in my office, but I would get a weak signal in the basement, so I moved my router to my main floor in my living room, and now i get a decent signal everywhere.
However with a 3300 square foot house I would suggest getting this Router: Asus RT-AC1900P at best buy for $199.
But before you get that try and move the Rogers Modem to the middle of the house, it should help. Once again Bell Fibre wont make any differece, this is a WiFi limitation issue.
I was thinking along the same lines. Your home sounds like its fairly large, possibly too large for any combo modem/router box to provide adequate wifi coverage. Poor wifi reception with these boxes is a common complaint for all ISPs and the Hitron modems are no exception to that. My home is probably similar in size to that of @gp-se. I run an Asus RT-AC68U, which is the predecessor to the RT-AC1900P. The 68U runs an 800 Mhz processor, the 1900P runs a 1.4 Ghz processor. Other than that, its the same modem. These days I would only recommend buying a router that has a processor that runs somewhere above 1 Ghz. I'd say that a 1.4 Ghz processor is necessary to give yourself room to move up in speeds, run the functions that you want to run within the router and give you a few years of service before its time to replace it. I can vouch for the 68U. Its only down for firmware updates. Other than that it's used day in day out, no problems, and it provides coverage for the whole house. We live in an area with somewhere around 35 to 40 or more 2.4 Ghz modems and routers running, so, anything important runs in the 5 Ghz band where there are only a handful of networks running.
For anything you decide to buy, I would put a 1.4 Ghz processor or higher, gigabit WAN and LAN ports and external antenna on the hit list. Anything else, I personally wouldn't look at. I would recommend an Asus router as I and many others in the forum use them. Netgear routers are a good consideration but, they filter IPV6 ICMP which is required to run IPV6. This has been brought up on the Netgear forum, but, there doesn't appear to be any movement on the issue.
Fwiw, the Asus routers employ "AI Protection" for IPV4 and IPV6. This includes Malicious Sites Blocking, Infected Device Prevention and Blocking, and Vulnerability Protection, all of which can be enabled or disabled separately. IPV4 traffic doesn't have any issues with those. IPV6 takes a substantial hit as there is probably packet inspection that occurs for IPV6 packets that might not take place for IPV4 packets. Remember this is with the 800 Mhz processor. With the faster processor, I suspect that you wouldn't see any difference for the 100 Mb/s plan, and possibly for the 250 Mb/s plan either. For the gigabit plan, even the faster processor probably isn't enough to keep the IPV6 data rates up so they match the IPV4 data rates. That's assuming that all of the AI Protection elements are enabled.
So, those are some considerations with respect to buying a router.
Do you happen to know if your home has structured wiring installed? That is a cable bundle, usually run from the structured wiring cabinet in the basement up to each room, normally one run per room. That bundle consists of two RG-6 cables for Satellite and Cable TV, one Cat-5e ethernet cable for data, and one Cat 3, (possibly a Cat 5) for telephone. If you have that in your home, you can run data via ethernet all over the home, and not necessarily rely on wifi. If you look behind any cable/tv/phone outlet, you might find the rest of the cable bundle sitting there, waiting to be discovered by the home owner and put to use. The other end of the cables would be located in the Structured Wiring Cabinet in the basement, which usually houses all of the house telephone connections. I'd have a look for that as it might simplify the whole problem.
I would also suggest having look at the wifi environment around you. To do that, load inSSIDer onto a laptop and see who else is using the wifi channels that you are using. The link below is for the last freebie version of inSSIDer. Loaded on a dual band laptop it will display both 2.4 and 5 Ghz networks. What you want to see is your network at the top of the heap with everything else below it. Ideally you would have somewhere in the order of 40 to 45 dbmw separation between your network and anything else that runs or overlaps your network channel. As that separation decreases, you will have greater difficulty keeping devices connected. Some devices like cell-phone and tablets only have a single antenna which makes them more susceptible to interference from other networks, so that is something to keep in mind. Some laptops, not all, have dual antenna which provides a degree of antenna diversity, improving signal reception.
Note that this version doesn't properly display the 802.11ac networks in the 5 Ghz band. The newer licenced versions do. For anyone who actively uses the 5 Ghz band, I recommend purchasing a licence which is only $20 U.S. Not terribly expensive for an application that is pretty useful.
For the 5 Ghz band, you should be using channel 149 or higher as it has a higher allowable transmit power level, 1 watt compared to the 50 mw that was in force when the modem was approved by Industry Canada. The higher channels will result in higher received power levels, better signal to noise ratios and better data throughput.
One additional point, with the CGN3ACSMR, you are probably running firmware version 184.108.40.206. With that version and that modem as well as the CGNM-3552, there is a hidden SSID beacon transmitted on the 2.4 Ghz band. It runs on the same channel, and for whatever reason, appears to be responsible for decreased wifi performance on the 2.4 Ghz band. If you look at the wifi networks with inSSIDer you will see it at or even above the received power level of your network. It will have the same MAC address except for the last two digits. This beacon is on the list of items to take care of, hopefully in the next firmware version.
Have a look at the back of the modem to determine what model of CGN3 modem you have. There are the CGN3, CGN3ACR, CGN3AMR, CGN3ACSMR and the newer gigabit CGNM-3552, which apparently has been handed to users on the lower tier 100/250 Mb/s plans.
I recently switched from Bell Fibe 50 to Ignite 100. I have the CGN3 modem.
Speedtest is great.. 10 ping 100-140 mbits down 10 mbit up but when I watch things on ondemandkorea.com it seems to buffer a lot -- it never buffered before.
It's on a wired connection so I'm not sure why it buffers at all.. I tried lowering the quality.
I have a few phones / tablets running also on wireless.. is that causing the slowdown?
The wifi signal seems a lot weaker on this modem as well..
What do you guys suggest?
yup, ihave the 75, get about 20 and the tech says no garantees,
wired I get like 99, but is the oint of wifi then
@gerrt345, just so I have this correct, you're running 100 down, 10 up according to your internet plan. Wired you see 99 down, wifi you see either 75 down or 20 down? Can you clarify that.
If this is a wifi issue, have a look at the following:
check/set the following 2.4 Ghz wifi parameters:
Wireless Mode: 802.11 n
Channel Bandwidth: 20/40 Mhz, although, for test puposes you could set this to 20 Mhz. In a crowded wifi environment, I would set this for 20 Mhz.
Wireless channel: AUTO or, to an open channel if one existed, or to the channel that offers the least interference from neighboring routers and modems
WPS Enabled: OFF
Security Mode: WPA-Personal
Auth Mode: WPA2-PSK
Encrypt Mode: AES only
Save the setting and ensure that the Encrypt Mode stays on AES only. If it changes on its own to TKIP/AES, change it back to AES only and save the setting again. TKIP is no longer secure and will limit the wifi data rate to 54 Mb/s which is the 802.11g rate as TKIP is not compatible with 802.11n.
Check/set the following 5 Ghz wifi parameters:
Wireless Mode: 802.11 a/n/ac mixed
Channel Bandwidth: 80 Mhz, although, for test puposes you could set this to 40 Mhz
Wireless channel: 149 to 161
WPS Enabled: OFF
Security Mode: WPA-Personal
Auth Mode: WPA2-PSK
Encrypt Mode: AES only
Once again, save the setting and ensure that the Encrypt Mode stays on AES only. If it changes on its own to TKIP/AES, change it back to AES only and save the setting again.
Reboot the modem if you had to make any changes, ADMIN ..... DEVICE RESET .... Reboot.
Look at your wifi environment using one of the following applications:
In the modem itself, if you have a CODA-4582, there is a wifi Site Survey under ADMIN .... DIAGNOSTICS. Since it uses all three of the 2.4 Ghz antenna and all four of the 5 Ghz antenna, its fairly sensitive compared to a laptop or phone. The user interface isn't great, but, you can copy all of the data in one go and dump it into something like MS Excel, where you can sort it any way you want.
Thats the last freebie version of inSSIDer and at this point in time is getting a little old. Its fine for 2.4 Ghz application and does work for 802.11n 5 Ghz networks. It does display 802.11ac networks but not as well as it should. This has become a licenced application now for $20 US and works very well for both frequency bands, 2.4 and 5 Ghz.
The other applications are fine for 802.11ac. Acrylic is graphical, WifiInfoView is text only.
What you want to do is determine what channels in the 149 to 165 range are occupied and if so, which offers the least competition in terms of signal level for any given channel. If you can find a channel or channel range in that group that is not occupied, that will be the best choice.
Ok, have a look at the wifi settings and set the 5 Ghz channel to the best possible choice and see how this turns out.