1. Log into the modem and navigate to the BASIC .... RESIDENTIAL GATEWAY tab.
2. Change the Router Mode from Dual (stack) to IPv4. The modem will revert to IPV4 only mode in two to three minutes.
I usually run modem reboot when I do this as well: ADMIN .... DEVICE RESET .... Reboot Device.
You could, prior to the reboot, decide on a device to use a test subject. Remove that device from the static IP address list, and then reboot the modem.
The question at hand is whether or not there are IPV6 issues mixed up in the DHCP problems that you are experiencing. If someone can run test, that will confirm or disprove the idea. With IPV6 disabled, will the test device receive an IPV4 IP from the modem and operate as expected?
For those having DHCP issues, try setting the lease time to 30 minutes.
Upgrade to ignite 500 and got my modem on yesterday.
Wired my laptop and did speed test.
500 down and 20 up
For WIFI, big problem
2.4G and 5G
only 20 down, sometimes lower than upload speed
Look through all the messages
and did some settings on the modem on both 2.4G & 5G as recommended
Now WIFI speed
2.4G up to 50 down
5G up to 100 down
@mcmug888, if you haven't seen this post already, can you take a read thru it, specifically for the wifi settings and wifi monitoring applications.
@mcmug888 what device are you running on the 5 Ghz wifi. Do you happen to know if its dual antenna equipped, which would let it run higher speeds? Beyond the wifi settings, wifi speed is all about signal levels, signal to noise ratios and number of antenna on the device. Have you looked at the wifi environment to see who you're competing with for clear channel space?
Yes, it's dual
Most of the items connect with 5G wifi
phones, ipad, laptop
5G now is higher up to 150 (as now only my laptop connected)
wifi speed is all about signal levels, signal to noise ratios and number of antenna on the device. Have you looked at the wifi environment to see who you're competing with for clear channel space?
Not familiar on this one
That's why I copy the picture that I ran on the previous message
It really isn't the signal. Let me let you in on a little secret. 802.11ac killed 5ghz. By default everyone is broadcasting on 80 mhz channels. The interference in Toronto and most urban areas is much worse than a few years ago due to this. On 2.4 ghz only use 20 mhz channels and try changing to 40 mhz channels on 5ghz without AC. Report back your findings here, everyone should try this that has issues. You are limited to 150 mbit on 2.4ghz under ideal conditions and on 5ghz you will be limited to 300 mbit but you will get a much more consistant connection. Just remember to get AC speeds you will need to be using AC on your device as well, many devices are still not AC capable. I honestly don't think AC is that great in urban areas. Interference is killing all of us, it isn't just Rogers doing it, it is Bell as well and all of the routers people might use in addition to the wireless gateways. This is why google wifi and others exist, they use multiple access points with less power to avoid interference. You could try turning down the transmit power as well on both 2.4 and 5ghz. You will be surprised this will often help if you are close to your router. That said, this piece of junk has bad wifi, it is just the truth and even a new firmware might not solve a hardware design flaw. It has so many components in close proximity. A router with good antenna design will always win. Try an Asus router, Ubiquiti, the better netgear and TP-link but for commercial performance try ubiquiti. I used to work for Comcast in the USA and also ran a Wireless Internet Service Provider in the United States. There are many other tweaks that involve changing relatively complicated settings such as fragmentation threshold and beacon transmit interval but I don't think those settings are changeable on the coda 4582. I used to do nothing but wireless before, you could say I am a wireless engineer in addition to other things. Don't expect too much from one device is the moral of the story. I just want a stable firmware that I can put this thing into bridge mode and not have to reset the stupid thing.