@zzeuss nope, not the right answer, unless you want more control over the various functions that are found in a router as opposed to the modem.
First step is to do some troubleshooting, but first, as usual, a few questions:
1. Are you using the modem to run the entire house network? If so, I'm assuming that the modem is down in the basement.
2. If that isn't the case, can you briefly describe the house network, including the modem, any switches, and where the switch connects to.
3. There is a user control on the 4582 in version 18.104.22.168 that allows you to enable/disable the ethernet ports on the back of the modem. I believe its the last tab to the right. Check that and ensure that all of the ports are enabled. I'm assuming here that you are running the modem in Gateway mode. Please let me know in the network description what mode the modem is operating in.
4. On the back of the modem are LEDs for the connected ports. With the remote device connected and running, those ports will be flashing amber for a 1 Gb/s port to port connection rate, or, flashing green for a 10/100 Mb/s port to port connection rate. Please check those to determine if the port LEDs are active. If so, then the remote devices are communicating with the modem. If so, its a question of why the devices don't have internet access.
Edit: If you have tested the house ethernet cabling with an ethernet tester and found that all of the cables are in working order for gigabit ethernet, please let me know. If you have never done that, or the company or individual who installed the cabling didn't do that, then that should be on the "to do" list to determine what condition that cabling is in.
@zzeuss it almost sounds like you have might a modem with a bad port controller. There's always that possibility. You could prove that by parking another ethernet device close to the modem and use the provided cable to test each port on the modem. The other device doesn't have to be necessarily running in its full operating mode, probably just powered up so that the two ethernet ports will communicate with each other, confirming that all of the modem ports do in fact work. If thats the case, I would plug in each of the other remote ethernet cables into the modem, one at a time, checking at step to see if the connected port LED on the modem illuminates and starts to flash, indicating port to port comms. The LED should be flashing amber when the modem port is connected to a gigabit device port, and green for 10/100 Mb/s device port.
Those LEDs can be used in an offhand manner to detect whether or not the house cabling itself is connected for gigabit or 10/100 Mb/s data rates. If you connect a remote device that has a gigabit port at the far end of the cable, and the LED on the modem only flashes green for 10/100 Mb/s, that tells you that the connecting cable is either damaged, not connecting properly at one end or the other, or that the cable is not connected to the connectors so that it will support gigabit rates. To do that, all 4 wire pairs in the cable has to be connected end to end, otherwise the device and modem will only communicate at a maximum of 100 Mb/s. Thats one way to check house cabling, but, if there is an issue, that takes an ethernet tester to determine. I'll look up a couple of those at Lowe's.
Edit; Food for thought. Is the modem parked with the Structured Wiring Cabinet in the basement where the phone, cable and ethernet cables terminate? If so, I suspect that it would overheat and shut down some or all of the chipset. If that is the case where the modem is in the cabinet, then open the cabinet door to allow the modem to cool. It should be parked in a location where it has adequate ventilation.
@giygfgfkhfhgkhg its very typical for the modem to end up in the basement and in the structured wiring cabinet so that the modem can connect to the house ethernet cabling. So, in the basement and in the cabinet doesn't do the wifi any favours. The Hitron modems have never been known for stellar wifi performance in the first place, so, there's three possible strikes.
The modem can actually go anywhere in the home where there is a cable outlet, with one qualification. The modem should be on its own cable run, ideally run from a two port splitter or from the VOIP port on a powered amplifier which is usually located in the Structured Wiring Cabinet. In either case the modem signal levels end up with the least amount of signal drop thru the splitter or amplifier. Its possible to run the modem from a cable that is split somewhere upstairs, but, that can lead to excessive signal drops thru two or more splitters. The end result is a reduced signal level and possible issues with DOCSIS 3.1 performance which the modem runs in the downstream direction. Upstream should be enabled later this summer or fall.
If you happen to be in a home that has been built within the last 15 to 20 years, you might have structured wiring installed. That is a cable bundle consisting of two RG-6 cables for satellite or cable tv, one Cat-5e or Cat 6 ethernet cable for data and one Cat 3 (possibly Cat-5e) for telephones. The cables start in the Structured Wiring Cabinet in the basement or utility room in the case of a Condo, and run to each room, usually one run per room. If that cable bundle is present in the home, then its possible to park the modem close to a cable bundle drop point (cable/ethernet/telephone wallplate), connect the modem to the RG-6, and then backhaul the ethernet data via the ethernet drop at the modem's location, back to the Structured Wiring Cabinet. At the cabinet, install an unmannaged gigabit switch, connect the backhaul cable to the switch and connect the rest of the ethernet cables to that switch to provide ethernet service throughout the home. So, you end up with the modem upstairs providing wifi coverage, and faster ethernet service throughout the rest of the home.
It all depends on whether or not that bundle is present in the home. If not, then its possible to use the existing RG-6 cable with a couple of Actiontec MoCA 2.0 adapters to run ethernet, point to point over the RG-6 cable. That also requires a point of entry MoCA filter to prevent MoCA data from exiting the home and prevent entry from external MoCA data.
Beyond that you should also check/set the following 2.4 Ghz wifi parameters:
Wireless Mode: 802.11 n
Channel Bandwidth: 20/40 Mhz, although, for test puposes you could set this to 20 Mhz. In a crowded wifi environment, I would set this for 20 Mhz.
Wireless channel: AUTO or, to an open channel if one existed, or to the channel that offers the least interference from neighboring routers and modems
WPS Enabled: OFF
Security Mode: WPA-Personal
Auth Mode: WPA2-PSK
Encrypt Mode: AES only
Save the setting and ensure that the Encrypt Mode stays on AES only. If it changes on its own to TKIP/AES, change it back to AES only and save the setting again. TKIP is no longer secure and from what I remember will cause the wifi data rates to cap at 50 Mb/s. I'll have to look this up again.
Check/set the following 5 Ghz wifi parameters:
Wireless Mode: 802.11 a/n/ac mixed
Channel Bandwidth: 80 Mhz, although, for test puposes you could set this to 40 Mhz
Wireless channel: 149 to 165
WPS Enabled: OFF
Security Mode: WPA-Personal
Auth Mode: WPA2-PSK
Encrypt Mode: AES only
Once again, save the setting and ensure that the Encrypt Mode stays on AES only. If it changes on its own to TKIP/AES, change it back to AES only and save the setting again.
Reboot the modem if you had to make any changes, ADMIN ..... DEVICE RESET .... Reboot.
After that, look at your wifi environment using one of the following applications:
Thats the last freebie version of inSSIDer and at this point in time is getting a little old. Its fine for 2.4 Ghz application and does work for 802.11n 5 Ghz networks. It does display 802.11ac networks but not as well as it should. This has become a licenced application now for $20 US and works very well for both frequency bands, 2.4 and 5 Ghz.
The other applications are fine for 802.11ac. Acrylic is graphical, WifiInfoView is text only.
What you want to do is determine what channels in the 2.4 Ghz band and in the 5Ghz 149 to 165 range are occupied and if so, which offers the least competition in terms of signal level for any given channel. If you can find a channel or channel range in that group that is not occupied, that will be the best choice to set in the modem.
There is a also Wi-Fi Site Survey function in the modem located in ADMIN .... DIAGNOSTICS that displays the following data:
Channel ID SSID BSSID Security Signal(%) W-MODE EXTCH NT WPS
That would be useful if the modem was upstairs, as it is currently, it would be interesting to look at, but running an application on a laptop upstairs will really tell you if you happen to be fighting with your neighbors for the same wifi channels.
@giygfgfkhfhgkhg if your modem is presently located in the Structured Wiring Cabinet and you are able to identify a cable run upstairs that already has connectors installed, you should simply be able to disconnect the modem cable from the splitter or amplifier and connect the cable that runs upstairs to the splitter or amplifier in place of the modem cable. At the wallplate upstairs, assuming that the house cable has a connector on it, and is ready to go, it should be a matter or simply connecting the RG-6 that is still on the modem to the wallplate and connecting the power to the modem. That should do it. Just take care not to over tighten the connector at the splitter or amplifier or on the wallplate.
If you need to connect a couple of cables together to do this, you will need a double female F-connector as shown here. This particular F-Connector will support 3 Ghz which is beyond the cable tv range, but that will ensure that you don't see any signal drop through the connector. This should be used to replace all of the house wallplate F-connectors due to the higher frequency range and decreased signal drop that can be found lesser quality connectors. You might have them already installed. If so, they can be identified by the blue dielectric material used in the center core of the adapters.
In the event that you find yourself in a situation where the modem has to stay put within the cabinet for now, leave the cabinet door open so that the modem does not overheat as that will result in anything from flaky performance to outright modem failure.
@zzeuss have a look at the following search results:
Essentially this appears to involve the power management of the ethernet adapter. End story, disable the ability of the pc to shut down the adapter to save power. This might solve both problems where the pc appears to adversely effect the modem, and where the pc does not reconnect to the internet after exiting sleep mode.
Drill down in the Device Manager, into the ethernet adapter Power Management properties and disable the enable/disable switch to "Allow this computer to turn off this device to save power". See if that solves both problems. If so, then the Windows OS is doing something at the ethernet level that the modem is not very happy with for some reason. That could be related to the specific model of the ethernet adapter.