Hello, I was talking with a client services agent over the phone in regards to upgrading my internet. We are currently on a package with 80GB express package and we are going over because my wife is now working at home and we recently discovered those android boxes and Netflix. 🙂
I mentioned to the client services that the internet is quite slow and he suggested we get the Ignite 100 or 250 package. We agreed on the Ignite 250 package as my wife needs the best speed possible for the work she does . The agent gave us a good deal on the new package and told me as long as I pick up the rocket modem before my bill cycle the system will waive my overage fees 🙂
I actually perfer to use my own Router an Asus RT-N-12 I bought from Canada Computers a few years back and so far it has been very solid, I intend to continue using it.
My Questions are...
Will my router support the 250mbps speed? Also how to put the new modem in bridge mode? I read the thread about putting the modems in bridge mode but its very confusing and I am not sure which modem brand I will get?
From what I understand there is SMC, Cisco (the one I have now) and Hitrons CGN2,CGN3 CGN3SMACR etc...
Anyways any help is appriciated 🙂
Solved! Solved! Go to Solution.
For the Ignite 250 you should receive the CGN3ACSMR. If not, that is what you should ask for.
To switch the modem into Bridge mode, log into the modem, navigate to BASIC...... GATEWAY FUNCTION and disable the Residential Gateway Function. Save the setting and it will reboot into Bridge mode.
Your Asus RT-N12 is long in the tooth so to speak. Can you indicate which model it is, as there is an Asus RT-N12 and an Asus RT-N12D1:
The original Asus RT-N12 had its last firmware update in Sept 2011 and should be considered a security hazard, personal opinion. It also has 10/100 mb/s ethernet ports on it which will not support the 250 Mb/s data rate supplied by the modem.
The Asus RT-N12D1 also has 10/100 mb/s ethernet ports which again will not support the 250 Mb/s data rate. The last firmware update for this modem was Mar 18 2016, so, firmware wise, that will be ok.
So, for your own security you should replace the router if its the original version, due to the lack of any recent security updates which are built into firmware updates.
If you have the later version, and you want to take advantage of higher ethernet data rates through the router, you will have to replace the router. Depending on your network setup, you could run the modem in Gateway mode and use the router as an access point only, realizing of course that your wifi data rates will be below 100 Mb/s due to the router's 10/100 Mb/s WAN port rate. However, using that configuration will allow you to access the modem's ethernet ports with their 250 Mb/s data rates.
You will find the modem user controls lacking in comparison to any router, so, that may be another reason to consider buying an new router.
My router is the RT-N12 D1, the black one? So my understanding is if I run a speedtest useing this router I will not get 250mbps?
I digged out the box for the router this morning and it says this router can support up to 300mbps? So is Asus being deceptive saying the router only supports up to 300mbps when in reality it only gets 100mpbs? If so this doesnt well with me.
I bought this router because the wifi on the Rogers supplied cisco router is poor and this router did improve my wifi connectivity. So the slow speeds I have been getting could be because of this router?
ASUS is not being deceptive..
There are just different things to look at.
The WIFI part of it, will be capable of 300mbps. The wireless part, could then transmit up to 300mbps.
So between computers internally, you would be able to get up to those speeds.
But the WAN port, connecting to the outside, is only 100mbps.
So through the internet, the connection would then be limited.
Your best bet to start, would be to pick up the rocket modem and just start with it. While they are still not GREAT it may be an improvement over the last rogers one you have, and may work slightly better, at least to start.
Then as needed, you could pick up a new 3rd party router, with gigabit ports.
You are correct. Running a speedtest with that router will not show 250 Mb/s. That is due to the router ethernet port data rate which only supports 10/100 Mb/s. Thats a physical limitation of the port, the way it was designed and the way in which it was built. There is a mixture of port capabilities on various devices these days. Some devices have 10/100 Mb/s ports and some some 10/100/1000 Mb/s. Companies that are trying to save a few pennies per device will install 10/100 Mb/s ports. That is unfortunate to say the least, however, not so very long ago, intenet data rates were nowhere near 250 Mb/s.
As for the 300 Mb/s, that is the maximum connection rate that the router will provide to a wifi connected device. That isn't the maximum data throughput of the router, just the wifi transmitter to laptop/device wifi card connection rate. The router has two antenna, therefore it will provide two data streams, each running a maximum of 150 Mb/s for a connection rate. The receiver also plays a big part in this. If the laptop that you have only has a single transmit/receive antenna, then it will only connect at a maximum of 150 Mb/s. If you have a dual antenna device, then your connection rate will be a maximum of 300 Mb/s. Throw in wifi transmit overhead, interference from other routers, distance from the router, material in your home, etc, etc, and you may be very far down from that maximum number.
To see what your wifi or wired device is running for a connection rate, right click on the internet symbol on the lower right hand side of your monitor and select "Open Network and Sharing Center". Select the ethernet or wifi connection link in the middle right hand side of the page to bring up the ethernet or wifi status page. The speed that is shown is the connection rate of the device, router port to device port.
The actual data rate that you see through the router will be limited by the ethernet port rate that the router supports and limited by the capability of the router processor and the router functions that you use. That is the same for new routers on the market. Newer routers, not all however, will have gigabit ports on them allowing higher data rates. There are new routers on the market that support much higher wifi speeds that have 10/100 mb/s ports on them. And...... the processor speed and functions in use still play a very big part in the final observed data rates. I run an Asus RT-AC68U with the vast majority of functions disabled, the 250 mb/s service and the CGN3ACSMR in Bridge mode. With Rogers speedboost kicking in I'll see a maximum of 328 Mb/s down, 22 mb/s up with an ethernet or 802.11ac wifi connection. If I disable the NAT Acceleration, as can happen if I select certain router functions, that downstream rate drops to somewhere around 240 Mb/s at which point the rate is limited by the horsepower of the processor.
So, I wouldn't say "deceptive". There is just a lot more to it than meets the eye, so to speak. Most people typically see the marketing presentation, rather than actual engineering facts and figures. What is it that Sgt Friday used to say "Just the facts ma'am."?
So, if you're thinking that your wifi data rates are slow, that is probably due to the other routers that you are competing with. The router's ethernet port rates will be matched pretty closely with your current internet plan, so I don't think you will see much of a speed reduction due to the router, depending of course on the router functions that might be running.
Wifi is where things get interesting. There are numerous variables which can conspire to severely degrade your wifi performance. Part of this is due to performance of modem/router boxes or routers, part of this is interference from other modems and routers and part is due to the performance or lack of performance of the laptop or pc.
Here is some food for thought. Load inSSIDer on your laptop, which is a wifi monitoring application. When loaded on a dual band laptop, inSSIDer will monitor both 2.4 and 5 Ghz networks that can be detected by your laptop. Have a look to see what you're competing with in both bands. In a suburban area, the 2.4 Ghz band is usually pretty crowded and tough to work in, so, I'm not surprised that you're having problems. Usually the 5 Ghz band is less crowded and easier to find a clear channel. The program link below is for the last freebie version. A new version is out now that will handle 802.11ac networks in the 5 Ghz band, and which will work on a 802.11n laptop. The new version will read the broadcast management frames and display the 802.11ac networks that are running in the 5 Ghz band. If you plan to move up to the 5 Ghz band, its worth the $20 U.S. to buy, so that you can see all of the networks that are nearby.
What you want to see on the graphical display is that your network is the highest network shown, which indicates that it has the highest received power of all the received networks. Generally you want somewhere in the neighborhood of 40 to 45 dBmW separation between your network and any other network that is on the same or overlapping channel. So, while your network should be the tallest on the display, everything else should be well below yours. When that power level separation decreases, you end up with interference and possibly with problems maintaining a wifi network. Your only option is to change to a channel with less overlap from the competition. By looking at that display you might conclude that the 2.4 Ghz band is hopeless and that its time to move up to the 5 Ghz band, if you can.
Fwiw, the Hitron modem does not support beamforming, which is part of the 802.11ac spec. That allows the modem/router to aim a focused signal towards the laptop/device, etc, etc. The result is better signal levels, signal to noise ratios and data rates at the device. The RT-AC68U as an example, now replaced by the RT-AC68P supports implicit beamforming in the 2.4 and 5 Ghz band and and explicit beamforming in the 5 Ghz band, meaning that the router can determine on its own where the device is and focus a directed wavefront in the devices direction (implicit), or, in conjunction with the device, direct a focused wavefront toward the device (explicit). Here's a link that provides some explanation:
The other part of this is the actual device itself, or, more importantly, the wifi card. We've run into far too many examples of new, really nice laptops that are well thought out except for the cheap wifi card that was included. End result, much disappointment at the wifi performance. The way to determine that, for a laptop, is to drill down into the Device Manager, grab the wifi adapter model name and number from the Device Manager display and run a search for the manufacturers data. A 1x1 means a single antenna for transmit and receive that will limit your data rates to 150 Mb/s. A 2x2 meaning 2 antenna is normal but not guaranteed will give you a 300 mb/s connection rate. This or better yet, 3x3 (450 Mb/s) will provide better connection and final data rates. If you run a search you will also come across posts regarding difficulties that other users might be running into with that card, so it may give you a better idea of what you can do to improve the wifi performance of your laptop.
Ok, hope that clears the air and gives you a better idea of what you might have to do. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Wow. I never knew it would be this complicated.
I am no expert in Internet communications but when the box says "300mbps data transfer rate" I expect it to be close to 300mbps not maximum 100mbps, to me it's deception and if that is the case I vow to myself not to buy Asus products again.
And just to be clear so if I use the lan cable are you saying it's only 100mbps and wireless its 300mbps... That doesn't make sense how does a wireless signal achieve better transfer rate than a hard wire connection?
Anyways I just got the new modem and I will try it out on its own and see how it is. I will report back later.
Yup, when it comes down to it, and you really start looking carefully at everything, it is or it can be complicated.
Say for the sake of the argument you two data sources, one from the internet and one from a wireless server in your home. Due to the 10/100 Mb/s Wan port on the router, the very very best you could achieve from the internet would probably be 97 to 98 Mb/s, via ethenet or wifi connection to some device. That Wan port simply limits the throughput.
If on the other hand, you were copying something off of the wireless server, with a perfect 300 Mb/s connection, the actual data rate would be 300 Mb/s x 5/6 = 250 mb/s, taking into account the wifi message overhead. So that's into the router via wifi, and out via wifi with perfect performance in both directions which is very hard to achieve in real world conditions. That also doesn't take into account the actual performance of the router processor under load and the performance of the laptop or pc wifi card and the performance of the laptop or pc itself. Its not unusual these days to see routers with very fast wifi performance and limited 10/100 Mb/s internet capability.
In terms of finding 10/100 Mb/s ports on various products that is common, unfortunately. That is why, as a consumer, you have to be careful when purchasing something such as a router, pc, laptop, tablet, etc, etc. In terms of seeing the performance that you expect, you have to get into the nitty gritty specs sometimes and understand the key points of what the specs are saying. Not trying to make this complicated, but the way that products are marketed these days can hide the real truth of the performance.
So, its not just Asus that has built something with a 10/100 Mb/s port, there are other companies. As I said earlier, just a few years ago, probably about the time that you purchased the router, internet speeds were less than 100 Mb/s. Its kinda like the argument from way way back when. "Who the heck is ever going to need more than 64k of memory on a computer?" And here we are today with multiple gigabytes of memory on a motherboard. And then there is "who the heck would ever need gigabit ports on a router, pc or laptop?" Same idea. What may have seemed reasonable just a few years ago is now outdated.
No matter what you decide to purchase from any manufacturer, you still have to ensure that it has gigabit WAN and LAN ports. Same goes for ensuring that it has external antenna.
These days the question is do you buy a router that is Multi-User Multiple Input Multiple Output (MU-MIMO). That is the next wave of 802.11ac routers that are just hitting the market. Do you buy that capability now, even though you can't use it, or do you say, buy an 802.11ac wave 1 router now, and when you need it, step up to a MU-MIMO router (wave 2 802.11ac). Same idea of buying a router with gigabit ports a few years ago.
Fwiw I run a wave 1 802.11ac Asus RT-AC68U which has gigabit ports and I'm happy with it. No complaints so far, despite the fact that some day, if I ever end up with MU-MIMO devices, I'll want to change routers to see better performance for the devices.
Unfortunately technology marches on, with or without us.
*sigh Its kinda like Audi telling me my car has 200hp but in reality it only has 100hp.
Thing that upset me the most was when I bought this router 2 years ago at Canada Computers they had the one that supported upto 100mbps and this one which says it can do upto 300mbps and I actually paid an extra to get the one with 300mbps thinking it would get better speeds, had I known this I would of gotten the 100mpbs one. Anyways it is what it is.
So I got my brand new modem today, it was a Hitron CGN3ACSMR. I just used it as a modem router combo. Did a speedtest on my laptop and got
not 250mpbs but then again my computer has been acting up, but nevertheless it isnt bad, everyone in the home is happy we get better internet.
the funny part is I did a speedtest on my iphone and I get much better results.
Ill probably just use the modem rogers supplied to me and keep the Asus as a back up.
Not too bad for results so far. There are a couple of items to check:
1. Can you log into the modem and determine what Software Version (Firmware) is loaded, as indicated on the STATUS page that comes up after logging in. The version that you want is 22.214.171.124. The previous version 126.96.36.199 was/is very problematic for a number of reasons. Hopefully you have the newer version loaded.
2. Next, can you navigate to the STATUS..... DOCSIS WAN page, copy the downstream and upstream tables and paste them into the thread. You can copy the text components and paste them in, so its an easy process, no screen images necessary. Those tables are the RG-6 cable signal levels. If they are where they should be, you will see good performance from the modem in terms of the download / upload rates.
Your speedtest numbers don't look so bad so far. Looking at the laptop speeds I would assume that its a 2x2 laptop, meaning that there are 2 antenna which are used for transmit and receive, so, 2 simultaneous data streams, in and out (Multiple Input, Multiple Output).
The Iphone numbers are interesting as well. That must be an Iphone 6, guessing from looking at the numbers. The Iphone 6 is a single antenna 802.11ac device, so, if you look at the following page, the Modulation and Coding Index and look at the intersection of the 80 Mhz bandwidths and 1 Spatial Stream you will see that the maximum theoretical connection rate is 390 or 433 Mb/s, depending on which transmit guard space is used.
Here's some additional info on the Iphone 6 wifi:
So, one additional suggestion that might increase your Iphone data rate, if its not already set, is to navigate to WIRELESS ..... BASIC SETTINGS ..... 5G tab. (I'm assuming that you're Iphone is using the 5 Ghz network at this point.) Have a look at the Wireless mode setting to see if there is a combined 802.11n/ac setting. If there is one, try that setting. Next is the Channel Bandwidth. I'm not sure if its in the settings or not as I'm looking at a draft version of a user document. If it is there, and there is a choice such as 20/40/80 Mhz, select that choice. Ensure that the WPS is disabled and that the 5 Ghz network name is different from the 2.4 Ghz network name. Save the settings and then navigate to ADMIN..... DEVICE RESET and reboot the modem. After the reboot, ensure that the Iphone connects to the 5 Ghz network and try the speedtest using http://speedcheck.rogers.com/en.html or the www.speedtest.net Toronto Telus server.
One thing to note is the lack of access to some of the settings. That is unfortunate and is usually one of the major factors that drives customers to purchasing a separate router. The other is the wifi performance itself which a good number of people find lacking, once again cured by purchasing a separate router. Sorry to bring that up again. Not trying to rub salt into the wound 😞
So, if you can post the firmware version number and signal tables we'll know what to expect from the modem in terms of its throughput and gaming performance.
thanks for helping me improve my internet speeds, I truly appriciate this. I now have a better understanding of this. The unfortunate part is I am not too technical so some of terms you use I do not understand.
Anyways the software version I have is : 188.8.131.52
|Port ID||Frequency (MHz)||Modulation||Signal strength (dBmV)||Channel ID||Signal noise ratio (dB)|
|Port ID||Frequency (MHz)||Modulation||Signal strength (dBmV)||Channel ID||BandWidth|
|1||38596000||ATDMA - 64QAM||40.750||5||3200000|
|2||23700000||ATDMA - 64QAM||38.750||7||6400000|
|3||30596000||ATDMA - 64QAM||39.250||6||6400000|
My laptop has always had poor speedtest results, wireless or wired, its a old laptop that I plan on replacing soon. The iphone is on the 5g netowk as Rogersxxxx-5g.
Thanks for your input once again.