Works fine in general but my laptops (toshiba 2 yrs old, acer 3 months old) can't pick up the 5G network. Well they pick up a 'Other Network' or 'Hidden Network'. I have tried to sign-on to these networks with my details but no luck.
However my year old Z10 and my 5 yr and 4 month old iPads show the 5G network and connect no problem. Anyone have any ideas? I have gone into the Hitron set-up and followed the instructions given by Rogers.
And one other thing, do I want to be on 2.4G or 5G? What's better? Better on a certain device?
Thx in advance.
FIrst thing to ask.
is, does your devices, the laptops SUPPORT the 5ghz range?
A good majority of them still DO NOT have this in them, and are 2.4ghz only... which is quite possbily why they are not seeing the 5ghz
(would need to look into the SPECS of the laptops wireless cards)
As for what you want.
2.5ghz will go FARTHER than 5.
Assuming you have a good signal/range... the 5 usually has better performance than the 2.4.
2.4... there is ALOT of possible interfearance.. portable phones, microwaves, bluetooth, etc.. all work in or around that spectrum.
Using 5 can avoid alot of this.
Did you use the USB setup key that is provided with Rogers modems (Hopefully not). The one thing to ensure is that both networks have unique names. There have been a couple of cases recently where the device was not selecting the network that the user wanted due to both networks having the same SSID (Network Name).
You should not have a hidden network transmitted from the CGN3. From personal experience that is usually a sign that the USB key has been used. The key allows you to set up a guest network, but it also results in a third 2.4 Ghz ghost network or artifact transmitted as well. To really have a look at this you would need to load inSSIDer, which is a network monitoring application for 2.4 and 5 Ghz b/g/n networks. Once loaded, bring up the network display and have a look at the networks tranmsitted by the CGN3. The application allows you to sort the columns by selecting the column names, so that the column sorts either up or down. Sort the column by power level, and your CGN3 networks should pop up to the top of the list. If you see a network without an SSID (network name) but, has the same MAC address as the actual network except for the right hand digit, then yes, you have a ghost network transmitting. It should not be there. If you click on my name, and follow it to the next page, you can see an example of that in the two images that are stored on that page. If you have a look at your networks transmitted from the CGN3, and see the same thing, can you do a screen capture and post it somewhere so that I can have a look at it?
Here is a link to inSSIDer, which is the last freebie version of that application. It has since gone to a pay version which also handles 802.11 ac.
The one thing to note, if that is the situation that you are in, factory resets will not cure the situation. You should return the modem and exchange it. When you bring the next modem home, don't use the USB key, but run the same check to ensure that the modem is running correctly.
I've found the 2.4 Ghz network to be unuseable as it won't run properly. Thats just a personal observation, so I can't speak for people who actually have a 2.4 Ghz network up and running. The 5 Ghz network seems to be fairly solid and works without any issue, from what I have seen.
There is a firmware update rumoured to be released before the end of the year. That should take care of the wired throttling bug that is present. I'm hoping that it will also take care of latency within the CGN3, which is evident when you are running in Gateway mode.
For a summary of the CGN3, have a look at my posting on the following page:
I think I checked on my Toshiba under my Realtek Wireless LAN in Device Manager. In Properties, under Advanced --> Bandwidth, I see 20_40MHz or 20MHz Only. Is this the right place to look? If so, I might be out of luck for 5G even though I don't see the link between MH and GH.
Unfortunately I did use the UBS key from the outset. As I mentioned, I did go into Hitron Set-up via Ethernet cable and did add a 5 to end of my 5G network. I do have three networks coming from the same IP address, one without a name. Ghost.
So maybe along Gdkitty's post, my laptop might not be able to use the 5G range?
You should leave it set for 20_40 Mhz, so that it will use either 20 Mhz wide channels, or use 2 channels simultaneously, ie. 40 Mhz wide transmissions. This is applicable to either 2.4 or 5 Ghz networks. Can you post in the exact model number of the Realtek Adapter as shown in the Device Manager. It may not show in the Adavanced settings if it can be locked into or out of the 2.4 or 5 Ghz bands, so the only way to determine what it can do is look up the specs for the wifi adapter mini-card, which requires the model number.
As soon as we can look up the specs for the particular wifi mini-card that you have, we'll know if its capable of using 5 Ghz networks.
The USB key isn't required unless you want to set up a guest account, name the wired networks or use parental conrols. The unfortunate side effect, from what I have seen is the transmission of a ghost network that you can't sign into. The effect of that spurious transmission is that it reduces the power output for the networks that should be transmitted by the wireless transmitter. Simply put, the device has a maximum allowed power ouput, and now, instead of transmitting one 2.4 and one 5 Ghz network, you end up transmitting two 2.4 Ghz and one 5 Ghz networks, sharing the power output across three networks instead of two. So, your range on the intended networks suffers as a consequence. So, my best advice is to stick a note on the device, to the effect of transmitting a spurious 2.4 Ghz network, and take it back and exchange it. You can't get rid of that network, so you might as well exchange it. When you bring home the next one, don't use the USB key, but do run the same check, just to make sure at the start, that the new device is functioning correctly.
If you do want to run a guest network, or use parental controls, my advice would be to buy a third party router which will give you those capabilities and more, and do a much better job at it.
I also have this rrouter. I have a different question. Is it possible on this router to open ports to two local IP;s.?
I.m trying to have various ports open for both an Xbox 360 as well as an Xbox One. The same ports have to be open for both. When I try to do a new open port for the second local IP, the router tells me it's duplicate.