Port ID Frequency (MHz) Modulation Signal strength (dBmV) Channel ID Signal noise ratio (dB)
1 591000000 256QAM 5.200 7 38.605
2 855000000 256QAM 4.400 3 38.605
3 861000000 256QAM 3.400 4 38.983
4 579000000 256QAM 4.400 5 38.983
5 585000000 256QAM 4.800 6 38.983
6 849000000 256QAM 4.900 2 38.605
7 597000000 256QAM 5.000 8 38.983
8 603000000 256QAM 4.500 9 38.983
9 609000000 256QAM 4.500 10 38.605
10 615000000 256QAM 4.200 11 38.605
11 621000000 256QAM 4.300 12 38.605
12 633000000 256QAM 4.800 13 38.983
13 639000000 256QAM 4.500 14 38.983
14 645000000 256QAM 4.700 15 38.983
15 651000000 256QAM 4.900 16 38.983
16 657000000 256QAM 4.900 17 38.983
17 663000000 256QAM 5.500 18 38.605
18 669000000 256QAM 6.500 19 38.605
19 675000000 256QAM 6.800 20 40.366
20 681000000 256QAM 6.600 21 40.946
21 687000000 256QAM 6.700 22 38.983
22 693000000 256QAM 6.600 23 38.605
23 699000000 256QAM 6.300 24 38.983
24 705000000 256QAM 6.900 25 38.983
25 711000000 256QAM 7.300 26 38.983
26 717000000 256QAM 6.800 27 38.605
27 723000000 256QAM 6.400 28 38.983
28 825000000 256QAM 6.800 29 38.983
29 831000000 256QAM 7.100 30 38.983
30 837000000 256QAM 6.400 31 38.605
31 843000000 256QAM 5.500 32 38.605
32 303000000 256QAM 6.000 1 38.983
OFDM Downstream Overview
Receiver FFT type Subcarr 0 Frequency(MHz) PLC locked NCP locked MDC1 locked PLC power(dBmv)
0 4K 290600000 YES YES YES 6.199997
1 NA NA NO NO NO NA
Port ID Frequency (MHz) Modulation Signal strength (dBmV) Channel ID Bandwidth
1 36996000 ATDMA - 64QAM 32.500 4 6400000
2 22100000 ATDMA - 64QAM 34.250 1 3200000
3 30596000 ATDMA - 64QAM 32.250 3 6400000
4 25300000 ATDMA - 64QAM 34.250 2 3200000
Channel Index State lin Digital Att Digital Att BW (sc's*fft) Report Power Report Power1_6 FFT Size
0 DISABLED 0.5000 0.0000 0.0000 -inf -1.0000 4K
1 DISABLED 0.5000 0.0000 0.0000 -inf -1.0000 4K
@shadowt1tan have a look at the following post, specifically the wifi settings and applications to load on to a laptop or wifi desktop to check your wifi environment:
A new program out now is Winfi Lite, which is available from the Microsoft store as a freebie download. The home page is:
Thats fairly new and looks promising. If you download and install that program, start the program, then in the second data and icon row from the top, select the "i" icon for info. Thats near the right hand side. That will bring up a lower data panel. When that panel comes up, select "Spectrum" to see the graphical display. At the top of the program is a 2.4 Ghz, 5 Ghz, or All selection to show both the text and graphical data. The scale on the graph is a negative scale, with 0 at the top and descending from there. What you want to see is that you're on your own for the channel that you're using or that any other users are in the vicinity of 40 dBmW or greater, below your network received power level. The less the separation, the greater probability that you either end up sharing the channel in question, or that your channel is subjected to interference from neighbouring channels.
With one of those programs loaded on a laptop, walk around your home and stop in place at selected locations. Stop for at least three minutes to allow the program to catch up with any movement from any other location. For 2.4 Ghz channels you probably won't see much difference, unless you have a very large home. For 5 Ghz networks, I would expect you to see differences in observed networks running nearby and in the received power levels for your network and the neighbours network. Its really a question of how many other networks might be running nearby and whether any of them are located one or two channels away, interfering with your network due to the overlap.
Just so that I have this correct, you and your neighbour have the same router. When his router is located in your home, it runs correctly. What happens to your router when its in his home? Does it run correctly? Don't discount the possibility of a wifi transmitter failure in your router. I've seen comments to that affect concerning Asus routers. I've never had any issue with my Asus routers and hopefully will never have any issues.
Any of those programs will also show your network, so it would be fairly easy to determine if in fact the router's wifi transmitter has stopped transmitting. If the wifi is still transmitting and you have no internet connection, thats a different matter which points to a cabling issue of some type or possibly a router or modem port issue.
Out of curiosity, what router are you running?
Just so that I have this correct, you and your neighbour have the same router. (Yes We Do)
When his router is located in your home, it runs correctly . (No I still have the same issue)
What happens to your router when its in his home (It works fine and he has plaster walls)? Does it run correctly? (Yes when connected in his home I have no issues)
- I will try what you suggested when I get home.
@shadowt1tan Does the wireless driver on your computer provide detailed live stats about your wireless connection? If it does, check the RSSI; if it's fluctuating across a very wide range, say -30 to -65 dBm, that's not good and you need to find out why. You might be seeing local interference in your house that's not present in your neighbour's house. If you are also able view details about neighbouring Wi-Fi networks, make sure that you and your neighbours are not operating on the same channels. Also make sure that you don't have any other wireless transmitters (cordless phones, baby monitors, etc.) in the vicinity of your router either.
I see that you checked the signal levels on your modem. What about the logs? Is the modem logging any errors about its connection to the Rogers network?
From your posts, I didn't see any specifics about your wireless configuration. One thing that I would suggest is to try configuring your 5 GHz Wi-Fi to a channel in the 36-48 range. Yes, that will drop the transmit power... but the same goes for other devices using those frequencies, so they also cause less interference. Also, don't perform a speed test with a device located located right next to your Wi-Fi router; back away 3m/10ft.
You still haven't said which types of computer/mobile devices you are using. That might matter. I had a really weird issue where a Wi-Fi router with a Marvell chipset did not mix well with my Apple devices, especially my MacBook Pro. I would suddenly and randomly lose 5GHz connectivity and the only way to "fix" the problem was to power-cycle the router. I replaced the router with one from another vendor... same configuration and Wi-Fi channel settings but with an Atheros chipset... and the problems went away.
For your wireless survey, if you have Apple devices, Apple provides Wi-Fi scanners for both macOS and IOS. On iOS, install Apple's "AirPort Utility" from the App store and enable the Wi-Fi Scanner in Settings. On macOS, launch "Wireless Diagnostics" and select Scan from the Window menu on the macOS menu bar. Scan also works best if you Option-click on the Wi-Fi icon on the menu bar and Disconnect from your wireless network.
The router myself and my neighbour use is an the Asus AC1900 router. The types of devices we use are 4 Apple iPhone 8's, 2 iPads, 1 Macbook Pro, 1 Windows Desktop, 1 Google Home Mini, Amazon Fire Stick, 2 Sharp 4K Roku TV, Honeywell Lyric T5 Thermostat, Android Box, Second Asus Router set up as a repeater, Security Cameras networked to secondary router.
@shadowt1tan Thanks. On your MacBook Pro, Option-click on your Wi-Fi icon on the macOS menu bar. That will display the live stats for your connection as well as the maximum attainable transmit rate. You can also hover on other Wi-Fi network names to get details about those networks. You won't see any neighbouring Wi-Fi networks with hidden SSIDs but those will show up with the Scan tool in Wireless Diagnostics. (FYI, you can also launch Wireless Diagnostics by searching for it with Spotlight.)
You can also get stats about neighbouring networks by clicking on " / About This Mac" , then click "System Report..." and go to Network / Wi-Fi.
It's too bad that you are unable to perform a speed test with a wired Ethernet connection.
Second Asus Router set up as a repeater
I didn't see any mention about this before. This may or may not be part of the problem... and I don't know much about the ASUS hardware (or AiMesh) so I can't really say anything more.
@shadowt1tan are you running an RT-AC68U as the main router? And what model is the repeater?
Are you running stock Asuswrt on both or Merlin's Asuswrt on both?
No matter which firmware you're running, whats the firmware version that is loaded on both routers?
Just to be sure here, are you running the second router in Repeater mode, Access Point mode or as an AiMesh node? I know there have been complaints regarding the performance and stability of AiMesh and a number of users have returned to a traditional main router with an Access Point router located elsewhere in the home.
If you've both of those routers for a while now, I wouldn't suspect a hardware issue at this point. So, I'm wondering about the wifi environment in your home. Are you running a wifi data forwarding and back channel from the second router or using an ethernet network?
If you walk around the home with a laptop and wifi monitor program running, watch the MAC address for your network. At some point you should see that MAC address flip from one router to the other when the laptop's wifi adapter locks onto the nearest router, or, router with the best network signal at that point in the home. I'm assuming that you're using the same SSID on both routers.
Are you running into problems with the 2.4 Ghz network, 5 Ghz network or both?
If you're running Merlin's Asuswrt, in the Wireless tab, on the right hand side is the Wi-Fi Radar function, which is a built in wifi scanner. Go into the Settings selection and enable the data collection. Then you can go the the Site Survey function at the top of the page to show the graphical results of who else is running nearby networks. Those results will probably show more networks as the router uses three antenna for both the 2.4 and 5 Ghz networks, so it will be more sensitive than a normal laptop, in terms of signal reception. When you're done with that, disable the data collection to disable the function, unless of course you want to have a look at the data at a later time.
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