I switched to Rogers 2 days ago and bundled Ignite 60 internet, home phone and Basic tv services.
I am having some wifi connectivity issues my 2009 Macbook Pro. I've been reading a ton of threads in this forum but nothing quite matches my situation, so I'll try to give as much info as I can.
I have the Hitron CGN2 modem. We have 4 devices connected to the wifi - my MBPro, my husband's 2015 Acer laptop (6 months old), and 2 androids: brand new Samsung Galaxy and a 2yr old Samsung Note. My husband's laptop and both androids connect to the wireless with no problem, although speeds are slower than advertised, but definitely still useable at 24mbs download and 8mbs upload. When plugged in via ethernet, the speeds are 75mbs download and 10-11 mbs upload.
My MBPro is having huge issues though, and what I'm trying to determine is if it's because my laptop is just an old fart and I need to replace it to use the internet, or if there's another issue. However, I had Bell before this and connected to the internet just fine.
The MBPro is getting download speeds of 0.10mbs and upload speeds of 2mbs. And that's when I could even get a speed test to run. Mostly, it just doesn't work.
Here's my CM Status stats:
|Modulation||256 QAM||256 QAM||256 QAM||256 QAM||256 QAM||256 QAM||256 QAM||256 QAM|
|Signal power (dBmV)||-5.32||-5.23||-5.32||-5.02||-5.36||-5.14||-5.58||-5.76|
|Signal noise ratio (dB)||35.972||35.779||35.779||35.972||36.174||36.174||35.972||35.595|
|Signal power (dBmV)||45.0000||45.5000||44.5000|
Here's my wireless card info:
Card Type: AirPort Extreme (0x14E4, 0x8D)
Firmware Version: Broadcom BCM43xx 1.0 (18.104.22.168.22)
Supported PHY Modes: 802.11 a/b/g/n
Supported Channels: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 100, 104, 108, 112, 116, 120, 124, 128, 132, 136, 140, 149, 153, 157, 161, 165
When I found this info, I also found a list of every other local wifi network. I live next to a medical building so there are a LOT. Most run on channel 1. I've tried switching the channel to a different one (6, 7, for example) and I'm already running at 20mhz.
Here's the signal strength info:
|MAC of WIFI client||RSSI0||RSSI1||PhMode||BandWidth||Data Rate|
I've also got it running at 11N only, to see if that made a difference. So far, nothing.
I haven't called Rogers tech support yet because I've been at work since they installed it. I'll try calling later on today.
My ask for the smart folks here:
1. Is it just because my laptop is old and cranky?
2. Or would buying a router and running the modem in bridge mode fix it?
3. Is there anything I'm missing that I could try?
I'll report back with anything Rogers tech support might have to contribute, but based on other threads here, I thought I might have more luck with the people here since it works for every device except one.
I haven't bought inSSIDer yet - was hoping to not have to spend $20 unless I had to.
Thank you so much!
Solved! Solved! Go to Solution.
@artgirl, the question on signal processing affecting video calls is an interesting one. I don't recall anyone saying that the problem affected any type of video conferencing. Gamers are usually the first ones to see this as there is a latency indicator built into many games, so gamers are usually more aware of overall system latency when they're gaming. Does this have the potential to affect video conferencing? Possibly but I can't say that it definitely will have any effect. The signal processing issue is due to the increased number of downstream channels that the new modems process and the processing itself which is done in software. Hitron is now experimenting with running that channel processing in hardware. Hopefully in a month or two at the latest, we'll see positive results. This issue has only come to light very recently with the fielding of the CGNM-3552 gigabit modems and the change over to the Casa CMTS equipment that started around the middle to end of May I believe.
So, the trade-off now, if you move up to the CGN3ACSMR "Rocket Modem" is a possible latency issue versus immediate access to a 5 Ghz network. You can always go back down to a CGN2 if you find any real problems with video conferencing.
In any event, from what you are describing of your apartment, you will most likely require a router with better wifi performance, no matter what modem you are running. And, you might find that switching to a set of high gain antenna will give the router the ability to reach most if not all of your apartment.
There are a few ways you can provide the reach to the back of the apartment.
1. Use a router with external antenna to give you better overall wifi performance. Add high gain antenna if necessary.
2. Use a powerline adapter set to provide internet to the far corners of your apartment. These plug into the electrical socket and use the home electrical cables to carry internet data. You would plug one adapter into the modem or router via ethernet cable, where the modem or router is located, and plug the other adapter into a socket where you wanted to access the internet.
The performance of these adapters depends on the total line length from one adapter to another, the particular path that is used and on the amount of electrical noise present in the electrical system. They would probably see their best performance with a pair of rooms where those room electrical breakers were located on the same side of the electrical panel. So, the data path would be from the wall socket, to the electrical panel, up or down the bus bars at the back of the electrical panel,(on the same left or right side of the panel), and then out to the other adapter's electrical socket. So, if it happens that the room where the modem is located, and your office are connected to the same side of the electrical panel, left or right, then, this might be an workable option. How well would this work in an old apartment building with potentially old wiring remains to be seen however.
There is a new generation of powerline adapters out on the market now that utilize the new HomePlug AV2 standard. Basically this means that these adapters use all three lines of the electrical system for the purposes of data transmission, whereas the older adapters use only one set of electrical lines. So, the newer HomePlug AV2 adapters can have much higher data rates. Most powerline adapters are only ethernet to ethernet, however, there is one out now that has an 802.11ac wifi transmitter at the remote end, in addition to ethernet ports. This is the only powerline adapter set out on the market with 802.11ac wifi capability.
If I was going to look for any powerline adapter I would only look at HomePlug AV2 adapters. The AV2 indicates the most recent standard applies to a given powerline adapter set, and, if I was interested in wifi, specifically 802.11ac at the same time, I would look at the TP-Link adapters first.
3. The next choice might be a range extender. I haven't looked at any of these, but bring this up as another alternative. Essentially its two wifi transmitters in one. It is used to detect an existing network, such as a 2.4 Ghz network and rebroadcast that on another 2.4 or 5 Ghz channel. So, it would sit halfway to where you wanted to extend the network, usually plugged into a hallway electrical socket. I've never looked closely at these, so I don't have any recommendations to make.
4. The last recommedation is to improve the wifi capability for your back office computer. There are a couple of new products out on the market now, designed to extend wifi range by using a USB port connection, or thru the installation of a wifi card in a desktop. The first is a Trendnet product that plugs into a USB port so it could be used with a desktop or laptop.
The second is a wifi card that would be installed on a desktop:
So, looking at these, yup, they're a little ugly to say the least, but, the goal, which isn't stated in the marketing is to use a high gain antenna to squash that vertical power distribution down so that you end up with more power in the horizontal plane and therefore increased range and data rates and provide directional capability as well. Same idea as installing high gain antenna on a router. If I was looking to to connect a computer that was hidden in a back office somewhere, I'd be looking for one of these to try out. The question that goes with this is whether or not you would be able to use Rogers Hitron modem up front, and use one of these for the back office. That would depend on whether or not the Hitron modem would provide sufficient 2.4 and 5 Gh coverage for the rest of the apartment. If not, then you're looking at a router up front, possibly with high gain antenna, and one of the add-on systems for the back office. It all depends on what you see in terms of power levels and any interference by using inSSIDer, and also on the wifi data rates that you see at various points around the apartment.
Just as a reminder, the freebie version of inSSIDer doesn't detect or display the 5 Ghz 802.11ac networks that are present, so it doesn't provide a complete picture of the 5 Ghz networks. The new version will do that, even if its running on a normal 802.11n wifi laptop. The application reads the transmit headers that are used in the wifi protocol and displays the data for the 802.11ac networks.
The metageek website leaves a little to be desired for organization, so, here's the download link. Select the personal version if you're interested in purchasing it:
Here's the link to buy the personal edition:
From that page comes the following for the mac:
System Requirements — Mac Version
OPERATING SYSTEM: OS X 10.8-10.11 (Mountain Lion, Mavericks, Yosemite, and El Capitan)
Note: inSSIDer Office for Mac (beta) only supports Mavericks, Yosemite and El Capitan
RAM: 2 GB
SCREEN RESOLUTION: 800x600
WIFI RADIO: Airport Card (USB WiFi not supported)
Don't know if the mac info helps or hurts the cause.....
Ok, lots to think about and consider. Hope this doesn't muddy the waters too much 🙂
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Welcome to the Rogers Community Forums!
Thank you for posting your concern in the Community, I appreciate all the details of your post. It's good to know that your modem is delivering 75/10 Mbps of speed on a wired connection.
You've mentioned that you are running the CGN2 at 11N only, have you also selected WPA2-PSK/AES in the "Security" section? Have you tried running diagnostics on your MBPro yet? You can click on WiFi icon/Make sure WiFi is selected/Assist me/Diagnostics and complete the prompts. It may help your MBPro connect at a good speed. If you are able to connect at good speed after running diagnostics then your ask#2 will be helpful.
Thanks for the welcome and the speedy reply. 🙂
I have selected WPA2-PSK/AES in the "Security" section. When I ran WiFi diagnostics, it told me that my wifi connection was working great.
Do you know of anything else I can check, just to get more helpful info for troubleshooting?
@artgirl the CGN2 is only a 2.4 Ghz wifi modem. You could download the freebie Windows version of inSSIDer as linked below and install that on the Acer laptop,which I believe is a windows laptop. That will allow you to to have a look at the wifi environment to see what you're up against and determine if you really need to be running in the 5 Ghz band.
The mac version link on that page is apparently linked to a pay version. As I don't know what version that is, if you really wanted to run it on the MAC, you would be better off going thru the inSSIDer web site to obtain the latest version. For now, using only the 2.4 Gh band, the freebie version will do just fine.
Would you happen to know if the bell modem that you were using before was 5 Ghz capable and if possibly you were using a 5 Gh wifi channel. That might be one reason why you see such a difference.
If that was a windows laptop, I would recommend deleting any wifi network profiles from the laptop and then reconnecting to the modem. When changing modems or routers people can often run into issues just like this where the old profile contains the connect details of the old modem or router. Maybe that includes the old MAC address and other hardware specific details of the previous network, speculating at this point. Is there a facility on the MAC to delete previous or existing networks? If so, I'd recommend giving that a go.
Just to comment in general, the Hitron modems are not noted for their wifi performance. I would recommend moving to the CGN3 series if you're eligible, and failing that, if wifi performance is a top consideration of any modem or router, you might want to consider buying a good router that will provide that performance, one with gigabit WAN and LAN ports, external antenna and 5 Ghz 802.11ac capability.
Edit: @artgirl, the CGN2 lies horizontally, whereas the CGN3 series stands vertically. Just to check, can you confirm that you have a CGN2? Dumb question possibly, but I didn't think that Rogers was handing those out anymore. If you do have a CGN3 instead, can you look at the product sticker at the back of the modem and let me know what version of the CGN3xxx you have.
@Datalink - thanks so much for such a detailed response!
1. Definitely CGN2 - it's horizontal, and I checked the details on the bottom before posting.
2. Bell - I just checked and it was a 2.4GHz modem (Home Hub 1000, Sagemcom Fast4350)
3. I can delete previous networks and did delete the Bell one earlier, but I'll try deleting all of them and see what happens.
4. I'll give the free version of inSSIDer a go on the Acer and report back with what it tells me.
I am starting to think that investing in a good router might be the best way to go regardless - we have a large-ish rabbit-warren-style old home and we realized we'd need a signal booster anyways. (The Bell modem line was in the middle of the house, the Rogers cable at the front, so we're noticing we can't get wifi in the kitchen anymore.)
I'll try these things out and see what happens!
Thanks! - artgirl
@artgirl if you have a newer home, built within the last 15 to 20 years, you might have structured wiring, which is a multi-cable bundle that runs up from the basement to one or more locations in each room. That bundle consists of two RG-6 cables for cable TV / satellite, one Cat 5 or 5e cable for data, and one Cat 3 cable for telephones use, possibly a Cat 5 cable instead. If you look behind any wallplate that has a telephone, cable or ethernet port in it, you might find the rest of the wire bundle behind the wall plate, waiting to be discovered by the home owner and put to use. Contractors will typically install a single outlet, telephone or cable and leave the rest for the home owner to find and figure out. If you do have that cabling installed, you can use the ethernet cabling to run data all over the home, which makes situations like yours much easier to resolve. That would allow you to buy a router and park it in a different location somewhere in the home to provide better wifi coverage.