I was doing the speed test on the Rogers site and speedtest.net and the result is about a 20~MB download speed and about 10 MB upload speed
My modem is the CGN3ACSMR one
I live in a condo and I'm 3 feet from the modem, connected via 2.4 ghz wirelessly with my laptop
I already rebooted a few times and also ensured all the wires are in the right place, tightly screwed in etc
This is my wireless card and after reading through posts on here, I changed it to only be on "n only" to see if it helped (no diff)
I do have Rogers Cable TV along with internet
Here's what it says on my downstream/upstream page (which *looked* normal comparing it to the pinned topic)
|Port ID||Frequency (MHz)||Modulation||Signal strength (dBmV)||Channel ID||Signal noise ratio (dB)|
|Port ID||Frequency (MHz)||Modulation||Signal Strength (dBmV)||Channel ID||BandWidth|
|1||30596000||ATDMA - 64QAM||45.750||6||6400000|
|2||23700000||ATDMA - 64QAM||45.750||7||6400000|
|3||38596000||ATDMA - 64QAM||47.250||5||3200000|
Solved! Solved! Go to Solution.
I think VivienM said it all. There are a couple things to try on the 5 Ghz side with your CGN3ACSMR. That modem is capable of running 802.11ac wifi. Looking at the CGNV4 user manual, it looks like the choice is 802.11n, 802.11a, 802.11b/g/n Mixed and 802.11ac. So, it looks like 802.11ac is an exclusive mode, which is rather interesting. Check the choices that are available for the CGN3ACSMR in WIRELESS.... BASIC SETTINGS....5G tab and see if that modem follows the CGNV4 manual. It would be unfortunate if it follows the same choice where 802.11ac is a standalone exclusive mode. The Asus RT-AC68U for example, which I own, operates with a mixed 802.11n / ac mode, which allows different devices to use either 802.11n or 802.11ac depending on what the laptop is capable of. The gaming laptop defaults to 802.11ac, which allows it to connect with the router at 1300 Mb/s, with a max wifi speedtest rate of 328 Mb/s down and 22 Mb/s up, the highest that the 250/20 plan will probably allow. That 328/22 is the same, wired or wireless.
If any of your apple devices support 802.11ac, you can change that modem Wireless mode to 802.11ac to see what it does for your transfer rates. You should see some improvement. Ideally you would be able to switch to 802.11ac, but I doubt that all of the apple devices support that mode. I would run an experiment to determine if that mode is actually exclusive. Set the modem to run in ac mode but try a test with a device that you know is only 5 Ghz 802.11n capable and see what happens. Hopefully the choice as presented in the drop down menu is incorrect and the 802.11ac mode isn't totally exclusive, locking out 802.11n devices. When you are done experimenting, leave the Wireless mode in 802.11n. I don't think that I've seen or heard of any devices that use 802.11a or g in the 5 Ghz band.
If the Wireless Mode drop down menu is the same as the CGNV4 manual, that also presents problems if you wanted to buy a USB dongle. Even if you buy an 802.11ac capable USB adapter, you might not be able to use the ac mode if the CGN3ACSMR runs ac as an exclusive choice, locking out your other 5 Ghz devices from communicating with the modem. It comes down to a choice, run 802.11n for everything or 802.11ac for some things. Not a great choice, I think. Thats where buying a good router comes in. Better controls over the features and a wider choice of features, if you choose to run them.
The other thing you should do is set the channel for 5 Ghz to Channel 149 or higher, and the Channel Bandwidth to at least 40 Mhz. You might be able to get away with 80 Mhz wide channels but you would have to know who else is running 5 Ghz networks nearby, and whether or not any of them are up at channel 149 or higher. Why 149? The higher channels have a higher allowable transmit power, which can help in terms of the final data rates.
The WPS should be disabled or set to OFF, as it is not secure anymore and therefore a security hazard for any modem or router that has it enabled.
Hi @nifty The fact that you are seeing 20 Mb/s download rates on a 2.4 Ghz network doesn't surprise me. The 2.4 Ghz band in densely populated areas is oversubscribed due to the number of users on those networks which results in interference between routers. The way to determine that however is to load inSSIDer onto your laptop and see where your network is sitting among the various other networks that are up and running nearby. By looking at the graphical display you can determine if there is a better channel to operate on that would give you better data rates. The height of the networks displayed in the graphical area is tied to the received power of those network at your laptop. What you want is for your received power to be in the low -40s range and show as the highest one on the display, and for everyone else to be in the -80s range and below. The received power scaling is negative, with 0 dBmW at the top, and all measurements being below that mark. Ideally you would have a 40 dBmW range or greater between your network received power and the next one down on the list that is either on the same channel as you, or on an overlapping channel. Anything less than that and you end up with slower transmission rates between the modem, or router and the laptop.
So here's a link to the last freebie version which will cover 2.4 and 5 Ghz networks. It doesn't display the newer 802.11ac networks but there is a new version out that will display that even if it is used on a typical dual band laptop. So, in terms of wifi data rates, that's the place to start. What you might determine is that there are so many other networks nearby, that the 2.4 Ghz band is hopeless, and that its time to move to the 5 Ghz band. Its unfortunate that your wifi card is not the dual band version as that would most likely be a tremendous improvement. There are 802.11ac versions of that 7620 card, so possibly that card can be swapped for a newer one. That would depend on how comfortable you are with taking apart the laptop and swapping out the card. Its not impossible. Just takes time and patience. So have a look at the inSSIDer display and see if you are able to make sense of it. If not, you can always do a screen capture and post it so that we can have a look at it. If you do that, please wipe out your mac address from the display before posting it.
To fully understand what your potential data rates can do, you would have to run a wired speedtest to the same sites. We would then know if the modem is delivering the data rates that you are paying for. Please let me know what the results of that are, assuming that your laptop has an ethernet port or that you have another pc or laptop that has an ethernet port. Hopefully that port is capable of gigablit per second speeds. If you look at the back of the modem, check to determine if the connected port LED is amber, denoting a 1 Gb/s device to device connection rate, or if its green, denoting a 100 Mb/s connection rate. Please let me know that colour the LED indicates.
Your downstream signal levels are a little low, but not to the extent that it should cause any problems. The range is + 15 dBmV down to - 15 dBmV with a normal median value of 0 dBmV. The signal to noise ratios are good. They are normally in the 36 to 40 dB range. The upstream signal levels are a little high, almost to the point of calling a tech in to check the cabling. First though I'd like to see the wired speed test results. If those are low, then it will be time to call Tech Support to run a signal check on the modem and possibly have a tech out to check the cabling and connectors. The normal range is 36 to 40 dBmV with a maximum value of 51 dBmV with three upstream channels running. Typically, as the cable ages over several years, you start to see signal losses on the cable. The downstream signal levels drop due to the losses and the modem pushes up its signal output to continue communicating with the node, which is the next upstream device. Every once in a while the cable requires replacement.
So, for now, please run a wired speedcheck to the Rogers site and to www.speedtest.net using the Toronto Telus server. And have a look at your wifi environment to see just how crowded it really is. The solution, depending on what inSSIDer indicates might be to move to 5 Ghz band by swapping laptop wifi cards or going to a USB 802.11ac dongle. This exact scenario has happened to others on the forum, so, unfotunately its not a big surprise.
Thanks for all the insight, @Datalink!
I actually am also connected to 5 Ghz on my iPad and phone and ran the speedtest on there too - it's a tad faster, at 36 MB and upload is the same at 10 ~ MB. Ping is 20 ms. So not that big of a difference but still faster I guess, just nowhere near 60 MB.
I ran the inSSIDer app (screenshot below). It *looks* like, and I'm not sure I'm interpreting this correctly, that I am at -27 when I should be in the -40s range? I had just gone with the default of channel 6 so maybe I should change to a different channel... do you think that'd solve the problem?
As for testing it out with the ethernet cable, unfortunately I have this brand new laptop (that isn't dual band as you mentioned) that is an "ultrabook" so there is no ethernet plug. I do have a Macbook Air with an ethernet adaptor from work I can try out on the weekend, and an old ancient laptop that I used to manually set up the modem today but it's probably not the greatest shape or "capable of gigablit per second speeds."
Anyway about the cabling wiring: sidenote is that I live in a new condo that was built in 2013 so probably not depreciating over time. I do remember when I first moved in and they set me up with a "free 6 months of Rogers services" and I had one of the better tier internet packages from back then, I could've swore I was at speeds higher than this. I could be mistaken (because I came from a world of DSL that was so slow, 20 MB speeds was considered a huge upgrade) but I feel like the old non-"Ignite" version of my modem got me quicker speeds than this.
Hmm tried to change to some random other channels that weren't as popular with neighbours around me and speed got even worse. Don't know if it's because I didn't reboot my wireless connection on my laptop or my router after the change but it became sub 20 MB.
http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/4491401452 on channel 9
http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/4491404513 on channel 2
http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/4491417521 on channel 11
I tried to pick some based on having less amount of overlap? I don't know if that's the strategy but played around with it to no avail
I would expect a higher data rate on 5 Ghz. One of the mods will have to approve the image before we can see it. Might take until tomorrow for that to happen. If you're at -27 dBmW close to the modem thats okay. Typically, with a little range to the modem or router you will end up in the low 40s. That value changes as you move around with the laptop. What you really want to ensure is that everyone else is much further below you, keeping in mind that 0 is up and -80 / -90 is below and you want to be midway.
We have a similar situation with an ultrabook. No ethenet ports. I keep a couple of these around for those times that I might want to connect via ethernet to the network:
It does require a driver which you can download. Others are probably very similar.
With that connected to the Ultrabook, I get a maximum of 200 Mb/s on a wired test using http://speedcheck.rogers.com/en.html or www.speedtest.net using the Toronto Telus server. Wireless also runs at 200 Mb/s max on a 5 Ghz network. Thats as fast as that ultrabook will go. Fwiw, the 250 / 20 package delivers 328 / 22 to the pc's or gaming laptop as seen on a wired speedtest. The gaming laptop sees the same data rate over the Asus RT-AC68U 802.11ac network.
Your 7620 wifi card indicates that it will deliver 300 Mb/s. That is the connection rate between the modem or router and the laptop. That number is under ideal conditions, using 40 Mhz wide channels, although I was under the impression that Intel wifi cards didn't use 40 Mhz wide channels in the 2.4 Ghz band. If it can't run 40 Mhz wide channels, then you're down to 20 Mhz side channels which chops the rate in half. Throw in background noise and interference, and you slow right down. To see the actual connection rate, right click on the internet symbol on the lower right hand corner of the screen. Select Open Network and Sharing Center. Left click on the wireless network link that shows about midway down the page on the right hand side. That brings up the Ethernet or Wireless Status panel depending on whether the laptop is running wired or wireless. The Speed that is shown on that panel is the connection rate with the modem. Using that rate, you should be able to match that rate on this chart, in the area that indicates 2 data streams, which means 2 antennas. That will show you where your connection rate is, compared to the bottom floor and the max connection rate.